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anchored close to a low rugged point, near the north-east end
of the island: employed two boats in examining the shore,
and landed a party to look for terrapin : Mr. Darwin and Mr.
Stokes went to the top of a neighbouring hill. Throughout this
day it blew so fresh a breeze, that double-reefed topsails were as
much as could be carried: but I think this strength of wind
only prevailed under the lee of the island, where the wind rushed
down in squalls, after having been intercepted and checked by
the high land. All the hills appear to have been the craters of
volcanoes : some are of sandy mud, others are lava. There is
plenty of wood hereabouts, though stunted and dry. On no
part of this shore is there a chance of finding water; all is
stony, without any soil which could either collect or carry
it off.
Our party brought eighteen terrapin on board. In size they
were not remarkable, none exceeding eighty pounds. This
animal appears to be well defended by nature; but, in truth,
it is rather helpless, and easily injured. The shell is slight, and
becomes weaker (in proportion to the animal’s size), as the tortoise
grows older.
19th. Sailed round the north-east extremity of the island,
and worked to the southward against a tide, or rather current,
setting strongly to the north-west.
SOth. At daylight we were off the south-east part of the
island and continued working to the south-west, during the
forenoon, along a shore quite bold, excepting the small rocks
above water in ‘ Middle’ Bay. At noon, seeing a small cove, I
went in a boat to examine it, and look for water. We found no
signs of any in that place; but a little farther west, a fine stream
was seen falling from a lava cliff, about thirty feet high. Mr.
Low had described this waterfall correctly; and his account
of the watering place near it was soon verified, by our discovering
a cove half a mile to the westward of the cascade.
We landed on a stony beach in the cove, and found a fine
stream of excellent water ; two others were likewise seen, but
they were inaccessible. This water runs from the highest
parts of the island (which are almost always enveloped in
clouds) down a large valley.* All this southern side of the
island is well wooded; and on the higher ground the wood is
very green.
Continuing our course along shore, we arrived at our former
anchorage in Stephens Bay soon after dark, when Mr. Chaffers
returned on board, having reached the anchorage in the morn-
ing.
22d. So generally cloudy is the weather here, that a day
such as this proved to be, of hot, vertical sunshine, was much
felt by every body; and to show how objectionable our anchorage
was in this respect, I may mention that a fresh breeze
was blowing all day in the offing; yet in the bay only light
variable airs were felt.
Some fine turtle were brought on board, the first we had
seen here ; they are rather like the green turtle of the West-
Indies, but not exactly. Among the shells found about tbe
islands one is common, which reminded me of the purple murex,
as the fish emits a strongly dyeing liquid of a similar colour.f
A kind of mangrove grows near the water, on the sandy
beaches of this island ; and the shape and colour of that curious
tree are some relief to an eye tired of looking at rugged lava or
withered bushes.
23d. While becalmed we tried the clamms ] in fifty fathoms
water, and brought up as much sand as would fill a bucket,
but nothing curious. Afterwards we had a breeze, and passed
Barrington Island pretty closely. I t is not high, yet the
shores are bold and fronted by cliffs; the more elevated parts
appear to be level, and rather woody. This night was spent
under sail between Charles and Hood Islands.
24th. While we were endeavouring to reach the anchorage
in Post-Office Bay (Charles Island), Mr. Chaffers and Mr.Mel-
lersh went away in a boat to visit the islets that lie near the
eastern side of that island : and it was found that they had all
* There is no other place in the Galapagos where ships can water at
all times of the year, t Found also on the coast of Peru (Ulloa).
I An indifferent contrivance of mine, made and put together by our
own armourer.
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