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thought ive were very suspicious characters, especially Mr.
Darwin, whose objects seemed most mysterious.
In consequence, we were watched, though otherwise most
hospitably treated; and when I proposed to return, next
morning, to the boat, trifling excuses were made about tbe
want of horses and fear of Indians arriving, by which I saw
that the commandant wished to detain us, but was unwilling
to do so forcibly; telling him, therefore, I should walk back, and
setting out to do so, I elicited an order for horses, maugre the
fears and advice of his major, who gave him all sorts of warnings
about us. However, he sent an escort with us, and a troop
of gaucho soldiers were that very morning posted upon the
rising grounds nearest to the Beagle, to keep a watch on our
movements.
AVe afterwards heard, that the old major’s suspicions had
been very much increased by Harris’s explanation of Mr.
Darwin’s occupation. ‘ Un naturalista’ w'as a term unheard of
by any person in the settlement, and being unluckily explained
by Harris as meaning ‘ a man that knows every thing,’ any
further attempt to quiet anxiety was useless.
As this small settlement has seldom been visited by strangers,
I will describe its primitive state. In the midst of a level
country, watered by several brooks, and much of it thickly
covered with a kind of trefoil, stands a mud-walled erection,
dignified with the sounding appellation of ‘ La fortaleza protectora
Argentina.’ I t is a polygon, 282 yards in diameter,
having about twenty-four sides, and surrounded by a narrow
ditch. In some places the walls are almost twenty feet high,
but in others I was reminded of the brothers’ quarrel at the
building of ancient Rome, for there is a mere ditch, over
which a man could jump. I t is, however, said by the gauchos,
that a ditch six feet wide will stop a mounted Indian, and that
their houses require no further defence from attacks of the
aborigines. How, or why it is that such excellent horsemen
do not teach their horses to leap, I cannot understand.
AVithin, and outside the fort, were huts (ranchos) and a few
small houses:—more were not required for the inhabitants,
who, including the garrison, only amounted to four hundred
souls. Some half-dozen brass guns were in a serviceable condition;
and two or three other pieces occupied old carriages,
hut did not seem to be trustworthy.
The fort was commenced in April 1828, by a French
engineer, named Parchappe. The first commandant was Es-
tomba : his successor. Morel, was killed, with ninety followers,
by a party of Indians under Chenil, in 1829. Valle and Rojas
succeeded, and the latter was followed by Rodriguez. Placed
in the first instance as an advanced post, at which to watch
and check the Indians, rather than as a colony likely to increase
rapidly, Argentina has scarcely made any progress since its
establishment, though it is the beginning of what may hereafter
be a considerable place. Situated favourably for communicating
with Concepcion—by way of the pass through the
Cordillera, near Tucapel—it is also the only port, between
25° S. and Cape Horn, capable of receiving in security any
number of the largest ships.
There is pasture for cattle near the streams which descend
from the ‘ Sierra Ventana:’ large salinas (spaces covered with
salt) lie within an easy distance of the settlement : of brushwood
for fuel there is plenty, though there are no large trees:
and report says that there are valuable minerals, including coal
and iron,* in the Ventanaf mountain.
The most serious objection to the locality, as an agricultural,
or even as a mere grazing district, is the want of rain.
Two or three years sometimes pass without more than a slight
shower; and during summer-the heat is great. In winter,
there are sharp frosts, sometimes snow; but neither ice nor
snow ever lasts through the day.
Good fresh water may be generally obtained, independent
of the few running streams, by digging wells between four and
• I believe tliere is no good foundation for this report, il r . Darwin’s
opinion is against the supposition.
t The name ‘ Ventana’ was given because of an opening, at the south
side, resembling a window.
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