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432 F E R R Y RIVERA-— E S TA T E . June
doubted. In leaping in the horses nearly knocked down, or
trod upon, those who were dismounted ; and when leaping out
again, they made such a splashing of the water in the leaky
ferry-barge as effectually washed our faces. The river is wide,
deep, and rapid ; and there are many sand-banks. The boatmen
use oars as well as long poles ; but are slow and awkward
to a degree I could scarcely have believed, had I not witnessed
their progress. The breadth at the ferry is about a quarter of
a mile, when the river is low, but upwards of half a mile when
flooded, as at this time. The south bank is steep ; and from
San Pedro, a little village at the ferry, the land rises in a southeast
direction, towards a lofty range of hills; but towards the
south-west, it is low, level, and firm. Across this excellent
galloping ground we tried our horses, and made the miles seem
short, till we reached a low range of hills over Point Coronel.
There, dismounting, we used our own legs until the hills were
passed, and before us lay two long sandy beaches, called
‘ Playa Negra,’ and ‘ Playa Blanca.’
In our gallop we passed the house of Don Juan de Dios
Rivera,* whose estate on the south side of the Bio Bio is mentioned
by Captain Hall as an instance of the progressive tran-
quillization of the Indians. Several large barn-like buildings
spread over ahout two acres of ground, enclosed by a high
fence of rough posts and rails, showed an eye accustomed to
the country, that the proprietor held in his own hands a large
estate : but that collection of thatched irregular roofs, and
the utter absence of any thing like outward neatness or regularity,
brought to my mind a very neglected rick-yard, near
which not even a cottage appears.
Yet this was the house of a man of large property ; and not
by any means a bad one, compared with others in that country.
Many reasons might be adduced to explain why Chilian gentlemen
are reluctant to expend either time, trouble, or money
in building good houses. Earthquakes are very frequent; property
is yet insecure; and the country has been occupied,
* Yntendente of Concepcion in 1821.
but so lately that there has not been any leisure time in which
to think of more than the first necessaries of life. Noble trees
surround this ‘ casa de hacienda.’* No underwood impedes
your riding at a rapid pace in any direction ; and beyond the
woody spaces, extensive plains stretch towards the sea and to
the bank of the river. These plains are intersected by numerous
streams, and adorned with irregular clumps or thickets of
trees: smaller indeed than those which shade the ‘ casa de
hacienda,’ but of a size sufficient to shelter cattle.
This estate, which is not considered a large one in that country,
comprises, besides many square leagues of wild hilly country,
more than one hundred square miles of excellent land, well
watered, abundantly wooded, and most pleasantly as well as
conveniently situated. The owner is said to be a most worthy
man, and numerous instances of his active goodness as well as
excellent disposition, have been related to me at different
times ; one of which I must stop to relate.
My attendant, Vogelborg, passed near the door of Don
Juan de Dios Rivera, while executing a commission entrusted
to his most speedy despatch. Stopping a moment to ask the
way, Don Juan remarked that he looked ill, and had better
rest. Vogelborg thanked him, but explained the necessity of
hastening onwards : in truth he was ill and very tired, though
anxious to proceed. Don Juan then suggested the quicker
method of forwarding the letters, entrusted to Vogelborg, by
his own confidential servant, and forthwith despatched him
upon one of his own horses, desiring Vogelborg to take posses-
tion of an excellent bed; where he remained two days under
the kind care of Don Juan de Dios and his wife, who till that
time, had never seen him.
Abreast of Negra Beach is an anchorage, sheltered from the
north and north-west winds by Point Coronel, but exposed to
the southerly and west winds. Here, as well as in coves further
south, much smuggling was carried on in the time of the
Spaniards.
Leaving the sea-shore, and some slippery rocky places over
Vo l . II .
* Countrj'-house upon the owner’s estate.
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