S3 PEASANTRY IMPOSING. \Chap. II.
mention these things to show that the man was in tolerable circumstances.
All the family were clean and well dressed. Perhaps when
I state the fare that I met with in this house, it may be considered as
militating against my conclusion, that this man was in good circumstances
: but this conclusion can be drawn only by those who are not
acquainted with the way in which the common people of Sweden
usually live. When I inquired for dinner, I was told that they had
no meat in the house, nor cheese, nor eggs. I got rye-cakes, butter,
potatoes, and three eggs, which they sent out for. Dinner was served
up without a table-cloth, and the dirty plates were left all night in the
room without being taken away.
The charges next day were, for mending the carriage wheel two
rix-dollars, banco, or six shillings; for dinner, lodging, and breakfast,
one rix-dollar, sixteen skillings, or two shillings and eightpence.
When we got the horses put to the carriage, Olof Essen told us that
he would not allow his horses to go at all unless we agreed to pay him
double fare. He knew that we were entirely at his mercy, that we
could only get horses by sending to the last stage: this would put off
half the day, and the charge would just come to what he demanded, I
was therefore obliged to comply with his unreasonable demand : but I
was forcibly struck with the want of generosity, and the selfishness
which he displayed. The sum which he gained by this conduct was
trifling, and did not exceed eighteen-pence; but the smallness o f the
sum serves only to make his conduct more glaringly striking.
The irons that served to support the springs of my carriage having
been broken to pieces, in travelling over the very rough ground which
constitutes the greatest part of Smoland, I got new irons put on at
Helsingborg, in their place: for this I was charged six rix-dollars, or
twelve shillings, which I thought exorbitant for two hours work, and
a little bit of iron. I had not gone two stages from Helsingborg when
these irons gave way, and upon examining them, I found that they
consisted of pieces of cast-iron. Thus for a saving o f a few shillings,
or rather a few pence, he subjected me to the risk o f not being able to
reach Gottenburg.
Chap. II.] PEASANTRY CONTRASTED WITH THE SCOTCH. 3 3
I shall still give another example, with which I was not less forcibly
struck than with those which I have mentioned. While travelling
through Smoland I lost a screw nail, which served to keep one o f the
hinges that raised or let down the roof o f the carriage in its place. At
the first stage I procured an old nail from a peasant. This. I drove in
myself, and rivetting it in the inside, made it answer as a substitute
for the screw nail. This old rusty naii was certainly not worth the
tenth part of a farthing: however the peasant made a great noise about
it, and insisted upon payment. By this time I was quite stripped o f
all my copper, and had no notes less than six shillings value. I told
the man if he could get change for a note, I would pay him willingly
whatever he should demand. No change could be procured, and I was
obliged to go away without satisfying him. He continued to make
his claim as long as I was in sight.
I could relate stories o f a similar nature o f the peasants in Sutherland
and Caithness. Probably the same dispositions exist every where in
the same circumstances: I know, however, of one striking exception;
the common people in the Highlands o f Scotland. I have met with
examples o f generosity and hospitality while travelling among them,
which struck me not a little. I shall satisfy myself with a single
example. About 15 years ago, my brother and myself undertook a
walking expedition over part of the Highlands, in the month o f August.
After going to- the top of Benlomond, we spent the night in Rowar-
dennan, an inn established at the foot o f the mountain for the convenience
of visitors. Next day we intended to go to Aberfbil, which
lies about 12 miles east o f the mountain. We meant to take the direct
way over the heath, where there was no road, and nothing to guide
us but the direction. W e got up about six in the morning, and
travelled at a great rate, intending to be at Aberfoil to breakfast: but
a thick fog came on, we lost all means of judging of our direction, and
were ohliged to go on by chance. About ten o’clock the fog cleared
up all of a sudden: w e found ourselves at a great height, and saw the
beautiful valley of Glen Dow stretched out below us. We had gone
round Benlomond instead of keeping the proper direction, and were
F