I T A L I A N S C E N E R Y , M A N N E R S , A N D C U S T OMS . s
P I L A T E I I I .
N E A P O L I T A N S E A T I N G MA C A R O N I .
N A P L E S and Genoa arc the principal places, that furnish I taly with macaroni and vcnnicel l i .
The Neapohtan macaroni is generally preferred, being made from a species of corn cal lcd
samgolla, tlie grain of which is very hard, and the bread made of it of a reddish colour and
glutinous. The genuine semolina is made from this corn. It grows in Apul ia , in Termini ,
in Sici ly, and in Livadia. It degenerates near Rome, and much more in the north of I taly.
Tlie Neapol i tan macaroni is easily known by not being twisted l ike that of Genoa, but
straight, or bent only at one e n d ; the reason of this is, that after having been forced out of
the press to the usual length, it is cut off, and hung on a stick to dry. The hole of the pipe
is very small, and this macaroni never breaks in cooking. It's distinguishing character, however,
arises from the qual i ty of the grain, which is not to be found elsewhere, and whi c h
makes the paste appear reddish, granulous, and semitransparent, when held up to the light.
I f you break a piece the inside is shining, which is not the case with paste made of any
other kind of corn.
Hie plate represents a country maccaronara: for so are cal led those publ ic houses where
nothing but macaroni is sold; and no village is wi thout them. It is extremely curious to sec
a common cask converted into a stove, as here. One of the cuds is knocked out, and the
vessel fdled lightly wi th stones; a hole is cut in the side of the cask for the purpose of admi tting
the ai r ; the materials for a fire are then laid on the top, and a complete stove is formed.
The lower class of people in general eat the macaroni with their fingers, taking it out of
the boiler with a wooden fork, and holding it high up with the right hand, in such a manner
that the lower end jus t meets the mouth. Those who have not time to stay in the nwccaronam,
take ofl:' their red caps, and depressing the upper part of them, j)ut in the ma c a roni ;
which havmg paid for, they walk on, and cat as they go : when they have finished, they put
on the cap again. Grated cheese and salt are all the ingredients recpiired to be added to the
macaroni: Parmesan is the favourite, but tlie common people make use of a checsc made
of mare's mi lk, called cocio cavulki, whi ch is very palatable.
The Italians iu general are very fond of maccaroni and vermicelli made into a soup ; but
the Neapolitans cannot do without them. Punch, the clown of the Ne a jwl i t an stage, having
been made a king, and macaroni br ing refused him, on ac count of it's being too connnon I
dish, says in Ins country di a l e c t : " ,„„ ,„„ ,„<• sp-ccepo,"-" Then I wi l l be a king no loncer "
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