beating rice in wooden mortars. On the banks of the
stream which the bridge crosses, there are a number of
people washing clothes, which they perform in the Indian
way, by dipping the clothes in water and beating them on
stones. From one end of the beach to the other there is a
range of people watching us, they are formed here and there
into groups; one of which, on a craggy knoll abreast of
the ships, has struck us as being particularly interesting. A
fine majestic looking man, whose full beard and flowing garments
remind us of a figure in the Cartoons of Raphael, is
standing in the middle of a circle of old men, who are lying
on the grass, and appear to be listening to him.
22nd of September.—-This morning brings us no news,
no permission to la n d ! A number of flags and streamers are
displayed on the masts of the vessels in the inner harbour,
and there seems to be something going on on shore; no boats
have come to us, and we have no occupation but looking
through the glass, which, however, affords a good deal of entertainment,
particularly as the people whom we see with it
act in the usual way, being unconscious of our scrutiny.
In the afternoon a number of boats left the shore and
proceeded to the Alceste in procession. In the foremost
boat there seemed to be a person of consequence, whom
we immediately conjectured to be the Great Man alluded
to by the people yesterday. He got on board the Alceste
before us, and the natives also had left their canoes, so
that we found the ship’s decks crowded with people. The
Chief, whom we found seated in the cabin, was clothed
in purple silk; with a light purple hatchee matchee. An
official communication of our history was now repeated at
the old man’s request. He listened with great attention
till Captain Maxwell concluded his statement, by informing
him that the ship was leaky and required frequent pumping.
He then begged permission to see this operation, if
it would not give too much trouble. As this was exactly
what we wished, the chain pumps were ordered to be got
ready, and the conference went on, consisting principally
of compliments. Observing that we took notice of his
being a little deaf, he seemed anxious to explain that this
was the effect of age. He made us feel his pulse, and look
at the withered state of his hand, then taking ours and
feeling the pulse, held them up along with his own, and
laughed with great good humour a t the contrast which age
had produced. He was about sixty years old, and his
beard of thin hair was as white as snow : he had a cheerfulness
of expression, and a liveliness of manner, which are
remarkable for a man of his years. His manners were
graceful and elegant, and from the first moment he seemed