and our horfes falling. We left the goat-herds, and found the
track, which we had palled in the dark, full of danger even by
day. We confumed near four hours on the mountain in going
back. Defcending from it to the beach we efpied one of our Armenians,
who was feeking us with a guide. They conduced us
to Giaur-Changlee, a fmall Greek village near a fhallow ftream.
By the way was a mean church, with a ruined infcription in the
portico. We were welcomed by our men, who were waiting in
great perplexity and anxiety at the houfe of the papas or prieft.
They had been out the whole night in quell of us, difcharging
their guns and piftols, hoping the report would reach us, but in
•yam. We relied at Changlee the remainder of the day.
T he next morning, April the ninth, it rained, but about ten
we mounted, and leaving the bay on our left hand, proceeded
with a guide toward Mycale. We foon came to Turkilh Changlee,
which is feated higher up by a ftream, then rapid and turbid.
I faw by the mofque an infcription, which I wifhed to
copy, but was accidentally the laft of our caravan •, and after our
late adventure was cautious of feparating from the reft. There,
it is likely, was the lite of Panionium, and of the temple o f Nep-
jtune. The river was named the Gaefus or Geflus, and entered
the fea on the coaft called Trogilia. Two days before, the ftream
was inconfiderable, the mouth not wide, and crofted by a bar
o f fand.
T he facred region Panionia ending, as we fuppofed, a broken
pavement carried us over fome roots of Mycale to a plea-
fant valley, in which a water-courfe commences. Several copious
rills defcended from the fides of the mountain, on which was an
over-lhot mill or two. The torrent farther on had torn down
the banks, which were fteep, with corn ftanding thick on the
very brink. At a fountain by the way is a farcophagus with an
infcription. I could read only a couple of the lines. About
two we came in fight of Suki; and going on, came at five in
the evening to Giaur-Kelibelh.
C H A P . XLVII.
A t Kelibefh— Zingari or Gypfies— Women lamenting—-Ea/ler-—
A phenomenon — Remark.
G IA U R -K E L IB E SH is a fmall village, inhabited, as the
name imports, by Chriftians or Greeks. It is fituated on the
eaft-fide of mount Mycale,. the houfes riling on a Hope, and enjoying
a fine view over the plain. The church is mean and was
encompafled with graves. It appeared as a place recently fettled.
We were here not far from the ruins of Priene, on which we
employed fome days, returning before funfet to Kelibelh.
D uring our ftay at the village, fome of the vagrant people,-
called Atzlncari or Zingari, the Gypfies of the Eaft, came thither
with a couple of large apes, which, their mailers finging
to them, performed a great variety of feats with extraordinary
alertnefs, and a dexterity riot to be imagined, fuch as raifed
highly our opinion of the docility and capacity of that fagacious-
animal.
O ne evening, coming from the ruins, we found an old woman*
fitting by the church on the grave of her daughter, who had been
buried about two years. She wore a black veil, and pulling the
ends alternately bowed her head down to her bofom ; and at the
fame time lamented aloud, finging in an uniform diftnal cadence,
with very few paufes.. She continued thus above an hour, when
it- grew dark, fulfilling a' meafure of tributary forrow, which the
Greeks fuperftitioufly believe to be acceptable and beneficial to
the fouls of the deceafed. The next morning a man was interred,
the wife following the- body, tearing her long difheveiled
trefles in agony, calling him her life, her love, demanding
the reafon of his leaving her ; and expoftulating with him on
his
L