24
many of the iflands in this fea, may have been the produce of
eruptions, which happened at a period too early to be recorded
in hiftory.
W e had here no choice, but were forced to pafs the night on
the beach, which was fandy. The Turks conftrudted a half-tent
for us near our boat, with the oars and fail. We now difcovered
that we had negleded to procure wine and candles at Tenedos.
We did not, however, remain in the dark. An extemporary lamp
fupplied one omiffion. It was a cotton-wick fwimming in oil, on
a bit of cork, in a drinking-glafs fufpended by a ftring. By this
light, the Turks, fitting before us on the ground, crofs-legged,
endeavoured to amufe us, by teaching us the numbers in their
language, or by learning them in Englifh. Some defired us . to
diftinguilh each by his name, Mahmet, Selim, Mufapha and the
like. They were liberal of their tobacco, filling their pipes from
their bags, lighting and prefenting them to us, as often they faw
us unprovided. Our janizary, who was called Barudter Aga,
played on a Turkilh inftrument like a guittar. Some accompanied
him with their voices, finging loud. Their favourite ballad
contained the praifes of Stamboul or Conftantinople. Two, and
fometimes three or four, danced together, keeping time to a
lively tune, until they were almoft breathlefs. Thefe extraordinary
exertions were followed with a demand of bac-fhilh, a reward
or prefent; which term from its frequent ufe, was already
become very familiar to us. We were fatigued by our rough hot
walk among the ruins, and growing weary of our favages, gladly
laid down to reft under the half-tent. The Turks flept by us
upon the ground, with their arms ready in cafe of an alarm,
except two, who had charge of the boat. The janizary, who
watched, fate fmoking, crofs-legged, by the fire. The ftars
fhone in a clear blue Iky, fhedding a calm ferene light j the
jackalls howled" in vaft packs, approaching near us, or on Mount
Ida; and the waves beat gently on the Ihore in regular fuc-
ceflion.
W e
W e rofe with the dawn, ready drefled, hoping to get to the
ruins in the cool of the morning. It was neceflary to take water
with us, as none could be procured there. A well, by which
the peafant had agreed to leave his bucket for our ufe, with his
afs, was known only to the janizary, and we refolved to accompany
him to the place, rather than wait for his return. Sorrje
of the Turks carried an umbrella for us, an earthen jar, arid
inftruments for meafuring or drawing, After going about half
a mile by the fea toward Ledtos, we turned to the left, and
crofling the plain, and two water-courfes, one of which was
not quite dry, came to a root of Mount Ida, and a vineyard.
We entered, and faw nobody, but gathered as many grapes as
we chofe, and loading the afs with our luggage, repaffed the
plain to the great ruin at Troas, diftant about an hour. Some
peafants were employed in a field of Turkey wheat on the way,
and their dogs worried us exceedingly.
C H A P . IX.
Policy o f Alexander the Great — Alexandria Proas — Its ftu a -
tion — Ports — Appearance —- Remains — Infcriptions — 5the
Aqua dull — Account o f it — O f Atticus Herodes— 1 No churches
vi/ible — 5The marbles removed.
ALEXANDER the Great, inftead of marking his progrefs
by devaftations, wifely provided more lafting and honourable
monuments of his paflage through "the countries which he fub-
duedj caufing cities and temples to be eredted, and forming
plans for their improvement and future profperity. As his ftay
was commonly Ihort, the execution of his noble defigns was
committed to the governors, whom he appointed j men of grand
ideas, fitted to ferve fo magnificent a mafter. Alexandria Troas
was one of eighteen cities, which bore his name.
D T his