the huge Rones. The whole mafs was illuminated by the declining
fun with a variety of rich tints, and caft a very firong
fhade. The fea, at a difiance, was fmooth and fhining, bordered
by a mountainous coafi, with rocky iflands. The pidture
was as-delicious as flriking. A view of part of the heap, with
plates of the architecture of this glorious edifice, has been engraved
and publifhed at the expenfe -of the fociety of Dilettanti.
W e found among the ruins, which are extenfive, a plain
Rone cifiern ; many marble farcophagi, fome unopened, and one
in which was a thigh-bone, funk deep in earth; with five fta-
tues, near each other, in a row, almoft buried. In the Rubble
o f fome Turkey wheat were a number of bee-hives, each a hollow
trunk of wood headed like a barrel, piled in a heap. An
Armenian, who was with me, on our putting up a hare, to my
furprize flunk away. This animal, as I was afterwards informed,
is held in abomination by that people, and the feeing it accounted
an ill omen.
C H A P . XLIV.
A t the temple —— A t Ura---- Ignorance o f the 'lurks — ‘Their
huts — Continue our journey — The confnes of Ionia with Caria.
T H E temple of Apollo Didymeus feeming likely to detain
us fome time, we regretted the entire folitude of the fpot,
which obliged us to fix our quarters at Ura. Our Armenian
cook, who tarried there with our haggage, lent us provifions
ready dreffed, and we dined under a Ihady tree by the ruins. Our
hprfes were tied and feeding by us. Our camel-leader tefiified
his benevolence and regard, by frequent tenders of his Ihort pipe,
and of coffee, which he made unceafingly, fitting crofs-legged
by a fmall fire. The crows fettled in large companies round
about, and the partridge called in the Rubble.
A t
*53
A t crtlr return in the evening to Ura, we found two fires,
with our kettles boiling, in the open air, amid the huts and
thickets. A mat was fpread for us on the ground by one of
them. The Turks of Ufa*, about fourteen in number, fome with
long beards, fitting crofs-legged, helped to complete the grotefque
circle. We were lighted by the moon, then full, and fhining
in- a blue etoudlefs Iky. The Turks lrnoked, talked, and drank
coffee with great gravity, Compofure, and deliberation. One
entertained us with playing on the Turkiflr guittar, and with
uncouth finging. The thin-voiced women, curious to fee us,
glided as ghofis acrofs the glades, in white, with their faces muffled.
The aflemblage and the fccne wa« uncommonly wild, and
as folemn as favage.
T he attention and knowlege of our gueRs was wholly confined
to agriculture, their flocks and herds. They called the
ruin of the temple an old caflle, and-we inferred from their att-
fwers to our enquiries about it, that the magnificence of the
building had never excited in them one reflection, or indeed attracted
their obfervation, even for a moment. Our difcourfe,
which was carried on by interpreters not very expert in the Italian
language, foon became languid and tirefomej and the fatigues
of the day contributed to render repofe and filehee de-
firable.
W e retired, after fupper, to. one of the huts, which was
near the fire, and, like the refi, refembled a foldier’s tent; being
made with poles inclining, as the two fides of a triangle, and
thatched with firaw. It was barely a covering for three perfons
lying on the ground. The furniture was- a jar of faked olives,
at the farther end. Our men flept round the fire, and watched
fome hours for all opportunity to fhootthe bull, which twice came
near the hut’s, allured by the cattle. He then changed his'hau'nt,
removing to a thicket dt a difiance, Where' we frequently faw
him, or heard him roar. The’weafher as yef was clear and plea-
U fant,