C H A P . XL VI.
S fl out from .Scala Nova—Separate and lofe our way — Benighted
tin .meifttf.Mycale.— Gggt-hertls-r^'To Qbanglee— fo Panhnium~~
fo.KtlihJh-
IN going from Scab Npva toward Miletus, as related in a
preceding chapter, we had in view on the right hand the coaft
called Trogilia, and the promontory. We then paffed Priene,
that journey having for its principal objedt the temple of Apollo
Didymeus. On our fecond arrival at Scala Nova from Ephefus,
we refolved to proceed to Priene by Changlee, or, as was fup-
pofed, Ranionium* That village is diftant about three hours
from Scala Nova. We flopped at the khan, while our men pur-
e.hafed ptovifions > and fet forward at four in the afternoon with
a. guide from the town, wboi put us into the road, which we have
mentioned as leading toward the fes, and then returned.
W e paffed, after defcending to the water-fide, along the edge
of the bay, and near a ruined caftle on a hill in the plain. Our
janizary was mounted on a free horfe, and we, to keep pace with
him, feparatud from our fervants, who followed with our baggage
behind. It was dulk, and .Changlee lying up from the fea,
efcaped our obfervation. We expedted to arrive there every minute,
apd rode on, until we came to the foot of mount Mycale,
and the beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we difco-
vered a track with a gate before jt, and went on, not doubting
but the village was near. Steep fuqceeded fbeep, the way flip—
pery, uneven, often winding about vaft ohafms, or clofe by the
brink o f tremendous precipices, with the fea rolling beneath.
W e were benighted, and perplexed, the track not being dif-
tinguiihable, though the moon began to Ibine. We diftnounted
to lead our horfes, when the janizary, who was a fat bulky man,
and
*15'
and d i ft re fled by the buihes, which entangled in his long garments,
bemoaned his fituation in broken Italian with the mod
plaintive accents. We ftill per&vered, differing now from third:
even more than from fatigue, and at length heard the found of
water in a nook below us, when the moments feemed hours as
we defcended tort. After this refrefhment, we puftied on as well
as we could, expecting to meet foon with feme houfe or village,
and commiferating our men and horfes embroiled, as we conceived
with our baggage on-the mountain behind us.
A bout two in the morning our whole attention was fixed by
the barking of dogs, which, as we advanced, became exceedingly
furious. Deceived by the light of the moon, we now fancied
we could fee a village, and were much mortified to find
only a ftation of poor goat-herds, without even a Ihed, and nothing
for our horfes to eat. They were lying, wrapped in their
thick capots or loofe coats, by fome glimmering embers among
the buihes in a dale, under a fpreading tree by the fold. They
received us hofpitably, heaping on frelh fewel, and producing
Caimac or four curds, and coarfe bread, which they toafted for
us on the coals. We made a foanty meal fitting on the ground,
lighted by the fire and by the moon; after which, fleep fod-
denly overpowered me. On waking I found my two companions
by my fide, Iharing in the comfortable cover of the janizary’s
cloke, which he had carefully fpread over us; I was
now much ftruck with the wild appearance of the fpot. The
tree was hung with ruftic utenfils j the fhe-goats in a pen,
fneezed, and bleated, and ruftled to and fro 5 the Ihrubs, by
which our horfes ftood, were leaflefs, and the earth bare; a black
caldron with milk was fimmering over the fire; and a figure
more than ghaunt or favage, clofe by us, ftruggling on the
ground with a kid, whofe ears he had flit and was endeavouring
to cauterize with a piece of red hot iron.
W e had now the mortification to hear, that our labour was
fruitlefs, and that we mult return the way we came, both we
and