habitants are diftreffed, and even gafp for breath. The ground^
is then burnt up, and has large chafms and fiffbres, which, as1
fome have imagined, give vent to bituminous vapours. Thefe,
if confined, are fuppofed to occafion earthquakes by their explosion.
A year feldom paffes without a fhock or two, but generally
flight, and lefs hurtful than alarming. They happen chiefly:
in fpring and autumn, when the weather is calmj and it has
been remarked at thofe times, that the fea commonly withdraws
from the beach, and the water is unufually low. Befides this;
calamity, Smyrna is alfo vifited almoft annually by the plague.'
I f the diftemper rage, the confiais and faftors either retire into-
the country, or, as the phrafe is, jhut up, not admitting even
the market-man to enter their gâtés. Many of the people abandon
their dwellings, and live abroad under tents. The iflanders}
return home, and the flreets of the Frank quarter, which is exceedingly
populous, almofi ceafe to be trodden.
T he Turks bury chiefly without the town, where the in-
clofures are very extenfive, it being their cuftom not to open the-
grounds filled with bodies until a long term of years has elapfed.
The graves have ftones or pillars at the head and feet, and are-
fbmetimes fhaded with cyprefs-trees. In their coemetaries, and
in thofe of the Chriftians and Jews, are found many marble flabsi
and fragments of architecture. The Englifh ground,- which is;
at a diftance from the Frank quarter, at the oppofite end of the
town, is walled in, and contains fome monuments worthy notice.
for the beauty of their fculpture. Thefe were brought from.
Italy. Mr. Bouverie, the friend and companion of Mr. Dawkins
and Mr. Wood, is interred there, and has over him a plain
marble with a long Latin infcription. He died at Guzelhiffar
or Magnefia by the Mæander.
Sm y r n a is well fupplied with prbvifions. The fheep have
broad tails, hanging down like an apron, fome weighing eight,
ten, or more pounds. Thefe are eaten as a dainty, and the fat,
before they are full grown, accounted as delicious as marrow;.
. . . The
The flefh of wild hogs is common, and in efteem among the
Europeans and Greeks, who purchafe the animal when killed
by the Turks. Fine filh is taken in the bay. Hares, with
game and fowl, are cheap. The partridges are bigger than the
Englifh, of a different colour and fpecies, with red legs. The
olive - groves furnifh «loves, fieldfares, thrufhes, quails, fnipes,
and the like in abundance. A variety of excellent wines are produced
in the country, or imported from the iflands. The fruits
are of an exquifite flavour. Among thofe of the gourd kind, the
water-melon, which grows to a great fize, is not only highly
palatable, but fo innocent as to be allowed to the fick in fevers.
The figs, are defervedly famous. The rich cluflers of grapes
are as wholfome as beautiful. Many on the fialk are found
converted by the fun into raifins. We were fhewn one fpecies,
which had no ftones. Large and heavy bunches are hung on
firings, and preferved in the {hops for fale in the winter. Lemons
and oranges, with citrons, are in plenty. The fherbets
made with the juice of the two former, newly gathered, in
water, fweetened with white honey, are as cooling as grateful
to the tafte. Coffee is brought from Arabia. We partook
almoft daily of eatables unknown to us before j and in a fhort
time were reconciled to the cuftom of lleeping after dinner,
which is recommended as conducing, and even neceflary, to
health in that climate.
O ur fituation was not, however, without grievances. We
were much infefted by a minute fly, which irritates by its puncture,
and fettling on the white wall, eludes the angry purfuer
with furprizing activity. But this fpecies and the other infedls,
which annoyed us, were petty offenders compared with the
mofquitoes, or large gnats, which tormented us moft exceedingly
by their loud noife, and by repeated attacks on our fkin, where
naked or lightly clothed, perforating it with their acute probofcis,
and fucking our blood, till they were full. A fmall fiery tumour
then erifues, which will not foon fubfide, unlefs the patient has
been