a hooded falcon on his knee, and another, which he ftroked
often and careffed, before him on a Hand. Round about him
were dogs and horfes. The Armenian, who interpreted for us,’
offered him our firhman, but he faid, it was fufficient that he
knew our country, that the Englifh and Turks were brethren.
He examined our weapons with attention; difcourfed on them
and our apparel, expreffed regret, that he was unable to entertain
us fo well, as he wifhed; and promifed us a letter of recommendation
to the Aga of Melaffo. We were treated each with a pipe
and difh of coffee, after which, making our obeifance, we retired,
well pleafed with his manly politenefs and civility. In the
morning he fent the letter, and a little old man, a Turk, who
had been a camel-leader, and was well acquainted with the roads,
to be our guide.
W e fet out at twenty minutes after eight for Ura, where we
expedted to find the ruins of a famous temple dedicated to Apollo
Didymeus. It was at Branchidse, which place was not far off
from Miletus either by land or fea. Near the city-gate, going
thither, on the left hand "of the road, was once the monument
of Neleus, a leader of the Ionians, and founder of Miletus. This
was probably a barrow. We faw no traces of the city-wall. In
half an hour the plain ended, and we came to a range of hills
called antiently mount Latmus; and foon after to a poor village of
Greeks named Audtui, where we ftaid an hour to procure fowls,
eggs, and other provifions to be carried with us. At ten we had
piffed a heathy vale by the fea, and then eroding a high ridge,
had in view fome columns of the' temple, which are yet Handing.
The road was over the mountain among low fhrubs, chiefly
the. arbutus then laden with fruit, like flrawberries, large and
tempting, but not wholfome; the colour a lively red, the tafle
lufeious and woody. Before us was a fmall inlet or gulf on the
north-fide of the promontory Pofidiom, on which the temple is
fituated. We came to the head of it, and turning up into a
valley, arrived about twelve at Ura, where are a few ftraggling
huts. • 8 ' ' S ' - '
A peafant
' A peafant of Ura undertook to-conduit us to the ruins, which
are half an hour diftant. We proceeded without difmounting,
and on a fudden a wild bull, roaming, rufhed out of a thicket,
clofe by the road, and made furioufly at our guide. The
man, who was before us on foot, turning nimbly round fome-
bufhes, eluded the attack. This terrible animal had for lome time
infefted that, diflriit.
I n defeending from the mountain toward the gulf, I had remarked
in the fea fomething white on the farther fide; and
going afterwards to examine it, found the remain of a circular
pier belonging to the port, which was called Panormus. The
Hones, which are marble and about fix feet in diameter, extend
from near the fhore; where are traces of buildings, probably
houfes, overrun with thickets of myrtle, maftic, and evergreens.
S ome water occurring fifteen minutes from Ura, and pre--
fetttly becoming more cpnfiderable, I traced it to the gulf, which
it enters at the head, after a very fhort courfe, full and flow,
This was antiently fuppofed to have its fource on mount Mycale,
and to pafs the fea in its way to Port Panormus,, by which it.
emerged oppofite to Branchidas.
T he temple of Apollo was eighteen or twenty fladia, or about
two miles and a half from the fhore; and one hundred and-
eighty or twenty two miles and a half from Miletus. It is approached
by a gentle afeent, and feen afar off, the land toward
the fea lying flat and level. The memory of the pleafure, which
this fpot afforded me, will not be foon or eafily erafed. The
columns yet entire are fo exquifitely fine, the marble mafs fo
vaft and noble, that it is impoflible perhaps to conceive greater
beauty and majefly of ruin. At evening a large flock of goats,
returning to the fold, their bells tinkling, fpread over the heap,
climbing to browfe on the fhrubs and trees growing betweenthe.