44 T R A V E L S i n A S I A M I N O R .
lages and towns on both fides the Hellefpont, when Leander of
Abydos firft beheld and became enamoured with his miftrefs Hero.
I t is the cuftom of the Greeks on thefe days, after fulfilling
their religious duties, to indulge in feftivity. Tyro of their
muficians, feeing us fitting under a fhady tree, where we had
dined, came and played before us, while fome of our Turks
danced. One of their inftruments refembled a common tabour,
but was larger and thicker. It was founded with two flicks, the
performer beating it with a flender one underneath, and at the
fame time with a bigger, which had a round knob at the end,
on the top. This was accompanied by a pipe with a reed for the
mouth-piece, and below it a circular rim of wood, againft which
the lips of the player came. His cheeks were much inflated,
and the notes fo various, fhrill, and difagreeable, as to remind
me of a famous compofition defigned for the antient Aulos or
flute, as was fabled, by Minerva *. It was an imitation of the
fqualling, and wailing, made by the ferpent-haired gorgons,,
when Perfeus maimed the triple fiflerhood, by fevering front
their common hody the head of Medufa.
O u r Turks and the muficians, when tired, expedted, as ufuaF,
bac-fhifh or a prefent. After fatisfying them, we went up to
the place, at which the Greeks were aflfembled. It was about a
quarter of a mile from the fhore by a church of the Panagia or
Virgin Mary, for fo they called fome walls of flones piled, without
a roof, and fluck on this folemnity with wax-candle lighted
and with fmall tapers. Clofe by was an aperture in the furface
of the ground, with a fpring running under the rock. This cavity,
at which a portrait hung of the Virgin, painted on wood,
was alfo illuminated; and fome priefts, who took money of
thofe who came for water, were preparing to perform mafs near
it. We were told it was a place of great fandlity. The multitude
was fitting under half-tents with (lore of melons and grapes,
befides live lambs and fheep to be killed, wine in gourds and
fkiris, and other neceflfary provifions.
i See Pindar.
W e left this lively Icene with fome regret, and re-coafting
the European fhore, landed, not far from the town and caftle,
on a fpot which we found was a favourite place of refort, being
noted for its verdure and fhade and for cool water, each a fource
of pleafure and as refrefhing as grateful in climates of a warm
temperature. Here a fire was prefently kindled, and coffee
made, and the whole company feemed to experience much felf-
enjoyment. We then returned on board, and our men tugged
againft the ftream until we were confiderably above the two
caftles and their towns, when the tide fet us over, and we landed
in Afia on the beach, from which we had embarked on our
expedition.
O n quitting the boat, we took leave of our muflelmen, upon
the whole well fatisfied with their attention and civility. The
Rais was an obftinate hairy favage, as rough in figure as a bear.
In their difputes fome had difplayed great ferocity, drawing
their fabres and threatening; but fome were of far gentler manners.
They were all temperate in their diet j chearfully fating
their hunger with fruits, hard coarfe bread, fait cheefe, or four
curds called Caimac-, and contentedly quenching their thirft with
water. Our janizary, Barudter-Aga, often requefted, we would
fpeak well of him and his nation in England. He was tall, and
polifhed in perfon and drefs*, and an excellent finger. Our Turks
refpedled him, and he quelled their animofities, interpofing with
authority. He was exaft and regular in performing the cufto-
mary ablutions, and failed not to rehearfe his prayers at the
ftated times, then fpreading his cloke on the ground, proftrating
his body, and touching it with his forehead; or Handing in a
fuppliant pofture, with his hands compofed, deeply intent on>
his duty, and to appearance equally devout and humble.
CHAP.