MËËÉM■ ■ H i ÜÜÉ
42 T R A V E L S i n A S I A M I N O R .
and Scamander in the recedes of Mount Ida j but now we had
danger to apprehend from the defperate parties ranging about the
country j our condudtor was defirous to get back without delay
to the diflreffed family of his brother, where his prefence was
required, and the indifpofition of our janizary, which increafed,
made our compliance with his wifhes as neceflary as it was rea-
fonable.
O ur cottage -was not far from the brow of the hill, on
which the church (lands, and we repaired thither to enjoy again,
before funfet, the delicious proipedt. A long train of low carriages,
refembling antient cars, was then coming as it Were in
proceffion from Mount Ida. Each was wreathed round with
wicker work, had two wheels, and conveyed a nodding load of
green-wood, which was drawn through the dully plain by yoked
oxen or buffaloes, with a flow and folemn pace, and with an ugly
fcreaking neife.
E a r l y in the morning we defcended the Hope, on which
Sigeum flood, going to our boat, which waited at Chomkali,
diflant about half an hour from Giaurkioi by land. After walking
eight minutes we came between two barrows Handing each
in a vineyard or inclofure. One was that of Achilles and Pa-
troclus; the other, which was on our right hand, that of Anti-
lochus fon of Neflor. This had a fragment or two of white
marble on the top, which I afcended; as had alfo another, not
far off, which, i f I miflake not, was that of Peneleus, one of
the leaders of the Boeotians, who was llain by Eurypylus. We
had likewife in view the barrow of Ajax Telamon; and at a dif-
tance from it on the fide next Ledtos, that of iEfytes mentioned
in Homfer. By the road were vineyards, cotton-fields, pomegranate
and fig trees, with a verdure and frefhnefs as agreeable
as flriking.
T he town of Chomkali is mean and not large. We tarried
there at a coffee-houfe, while our men purchafed the necelfary
provifions.
T R A V E L S in A S I A M I N O R . 43
provifions. We faw in the flreet two capitals excavated, and
ferving as mortars to bruife wheat in. The water-ciflerns are
farcophagi with vents. On one was a Greek infcription, not legible
j the flone rough. All thefè have been removed from the
ruins of places adjacent, for even the file of Chomkali and its
caflle is of modern origin.
C H A P , X IV .
hand in the Cherronefe — A panegyris o f Greeks — Their Muji-
cians — Their church — Arrive at the inner cajile — Charadler
o f our Turks.
W E had intended to return by the coafl of Alia, hoping it
might afford us fomething worthy obfervation; but, when we
came to, the wherry, the Rais refufed, preferring the European
fide of the Hellefpont, hecaufe, as he urged, the flream there
is lefs violent. This point being fettled, not much to our fatif-
fadtion, we were rowed over to the Cherronefe, where we landed
above -Eleus, within a point nearly parallel to Maflufia and
its caflle, and . at the mouth of the hollow bay Coelos, which
lies between them and has been mentioned before. We could
difcern fome buildings among trees at the bottom of the bay,
with piers of an aqusedudt j and on the rock near us were vef-
tiges o f a fortrefs.
W e had not been long on fhore, before our attention was
engaged by the appearance of many boats on the Hellefpont
fleering tpward us and full of people. The paffengers ^landing,
as they arrived, afcended a ridge near us in a long train, men
and boys, women with infants, and perfons decrepid from age.
On enquiry, we were informed, that this was a great holiday
among the Greeks, none of whom would be abfent from the
panegyris or General AJfembly. The feafl of Venus and Adonis
by Seftos did not occafion a more complete defertion of the vil-
F 2 lages