populous. A naked hill riles above it, with a houfe or two on
the fummit, where was the acropolis of the Greeks, and afterwards
the citadel of the Genoefe. We found men at work there,
digging UP the old foundations for the materials. The port has
an ordinary or ruinous mole, like that of Tenedos, almpft level
with the water. The mouth is narrow, and befet with lurking
rocks and Ihoals. It was about noon when we landed. We went
to the houfe of the Englilh conful, who was in the country. A
Greek, called Antonio, his fervant, and the drugoman or interpreter
belonging to the captain, who was with us, procured
fome live fowls, and eggs, with wine and fruit, for our dinner.
In the evening we walked over the town, which appeared to us
as a colledtion of petty palaces, after the hovels of mud we had
lately feen on the continent.
T he beautiful Greek girls are the moll ftriking ornaments
of Scio. Many of thefe were fitting at the doors and windows,
twilling cotton or filk, or employed in fpinhing and
needle-work, and accofted us with familiarity,', bidding us
welcome, as we palled. The llreets on Sundays and holidays
are filled with them in groups. They wear Ihort petticoats,
reaching only to their knees, with white filk or cotton
hofe. Their head-drefs, which is peculiar to the'ifland, is a kind
of Turban, the linen fo white and thin it feemed fnow. Their
flippers are chiefly yellow, with a knot of red fringe at the heel.
Some wore them fallened with a thong. Their garments were
of filk of various colours ; and their whole appearance fo fan-
taftic and lively as to afford us much entertainment. The Turks
inhabit a feparate quarter, and their women are concealed.
W e returned to the Ihip at night, the drugoman and Chiote
lighting us with long paper lanthorns to the boat, which waited
at the beach. A great number of ghaunt dogs were colledted by
the lhambles, which are at the out-lkirt of the town. They
barked furioufly at us, but were chid and repelled by our guides,
whofe language they underllood. The public, we were told,
maintains
maintains them; and they alfemble, when all is quiet. It is
obfervable, that thefe animals were of old a like nuifance, being
the Lemures of the antients, who ufed to pacify them with food.
The Arcadians in particular were accuflomed so carry bread from
their table on account of the nightly terrors, 'or thé dogs, which
they expedted to affail them in the ftreets.
T he next morning we were fet on fhore again, and I went
with Captain Jolly to the principal bagnio or public bathing-
place, which is a very noble edifice, with ample domes, all of
marble. I fhall attempt to give an account of the mode of bathing.
We undreffed in a large fquare room, where linen is hung
to dry, and the keeper attends with his fervants. We had each
a long towel given us to wrap round our middle, and a pair of
tall wooden pattens to walk in. We were led through a warm
narrow paflage into trie inner room, which is yet more fpacious,
and made very hot by ftoves, which are concealed. In this was
a water-bath, and recedes, with partitions, on the fides. The
pavement in the centre under the dome was raifed, and covered
with linen cloths, on which we were inflrudted to lie down.
We were foon covered with big drops of fweat, and two men
naked, except the waift, then entered, and began kneading our
flefh, tracing all the mufcles and cleanfing the pores. By the
time they had finifhed, our joints were diffidently fuppled,
and they commenced the formidable operation of fnapping all
of them, not only the toes, ancles, knees, fingers and the
like, but the vertebras of the back, and the bread; one
while wrenching our necks; then turning us on our bellies,
eroding our arms behind us, and placing their right knee
between our fhoulders. The feats they perform cannot eafily
be deferibed, and are hardly credible. When this was
over, we were rubbed with a mohair*bag fitted to the hand,
which, like the antient flrigil, brings away the grofs matter
perfpired. We were then led each to a recefs, fupplied by pipes
with hot and cold water, which we tempered to our liking.
The men returned with foap-lather and tow in a wooden bowl,
G j . with