as our drivers were longing for a taste of this evilsmelling
animal; he then agreed not only to lend us
two of his yaks for two marches, but to accompany
us himself. This addition to our transport was most
welcome, and as our friend informed us that, at the
end of the two marches, he would show us a good
nullah for ovis ammon, we readily agreed to all his
proposals. Early the following morning he appeared
on the scene with his two wives, four children and
two yaks.
The nomads who wander over these valleys are,
generally, of a nervous and timid disposition, wishful
of nothing but to be left alone and in peace; they are
nevertheless armed to the teeth, as they desire thereby
to terrify the stranger, whom they look upon as a
natural enemy. As a rule, a man is accompanied by
his whole family, together with their sheep, goats and
worldly goods.
The men are of short stature, averaging four feet
eleven inches to five feet, while the women are considerably
smaller; they seem, however, to be hardy,
and certainly contend successfully against most
unfavourable general conditions; their faces, hands
and bodies are indescribably filthy, but they appear
to suffer no ill-effects from the dirt, either in health or
comfort; when the dirt is removed, their complexions
are of a rather sickly olive tint, though the women
and children sometimes have a little colour in their
cheeks. The teeth are very bad, usually ill-formed or
protruding, and not infrequently altogether destroyed;
this may be due to the fact that, from babyhood to
old age, they subsist almost entirely on the flesh of
animals, which, in a half-cooked or wholly raw state,
they tear from the bone as a wild animal tears its
prey. Flour, tsampa and sweets are only partaken