first view of Shigatse, the commercial centre and the
second largest town in Tibet, was obtained. Though
still at a great distance from us, the closely packed
lamasery of Tashi Lhumpo with its golden tombs,
the immense fort of Shigatse, and the snow-white
walls of the houses showed up brilliantly against the
dark background of rock.
We had but little time to waste, and were soon
clattering on again, in and out of fields and over
irrigation canals, until the lamasery of Shalu, almost
hidden in a forest of trees, was reached. Every coign
of vantage along the approach was occupied by monks
and boys, old and young, clean and dirty, all dressed
in the usual rough dark-red cloaks.
Leaving the ponies outside, we entered a large
courtyard and passed into the house, through a fine
doorway of Chinese design. The head lama of Shalu
here received us, and ushered us into a lofty and
handsomely decorated room, one side of which consisted
almost entirely of windows. The centre of
the room was given up to couches and cushions, and
the atmosphere was laden with the scent of incense
and flowers. Hardly had we seated ourselves, when
refreshments were brought in, in such profusion as to
overflow all the available tables. Much as we wished
to avail ourselves of our host’s hospitality, it was a
decided trial to eat some of the dishes, and we were
not yet accustomed to the horrible decoction which
the Tibetans offered us as tea. When giving or
receiving hospitality in Tibet, there is always some
hitch in the proceedings; for Europeans cannot get
to like their various dishes, whilst the Tibetans
show an equal dislike for ours. Our scruples had,
however, to be set aside, and the dishes demanded
that they should at least be tasted.
The more solid foods were the least objectionable,
as we were only intended to partake of minute samples.
The tea, however, opened up an entirely different
question ; for any mistake might grievously insult the
host, since etiquette demands that the cup must not be
finished at one drink, for such an action would show
great greediness. On the other hand, you must not
drink too little, for this is tantamount to saying that
you do not like his brew. Again, it is no good pretending
you like it, by only drinking half the cup, for
as soon as you set it down again, it is at once filled
afresh by an ever ready servant.
The custom of using both hands when offering or
receiving anything probably originated in the barbaric
ages, when the presentation of a gift with one hand
only allowed the other free to drive a dagger home.
Perhaps the funniest of all Tibetan customs is that
known as the “ salaamy sheep,” which, together with a
“ scarf of greeting,” is presented to the guest on arrival.
The animal, after being killed, skinned, and cleaned, has
the hind legs passed through the muscles of the fore
legs, and is then hung up to dry, and to partly decompose.
After poisoning the surrounding air for several
months, the flesh is considered ripe for eating, and is
in this condition ready for presentation to the guest.
On being brought in, it is placed on the ground in a
sitting position, immediately in front of the recipient,
to whom the carcase appears to bow. The gift of the
“ salaamy sheep ” to our party was always very popular
amongst the Tibetans, for it was promptly returned to
the servants of the donor, and formed the occasion for
much feasting and rejoicing.
At this, our first feast, we did our duty manfully,
and retired after eating and drinking more than we
required. We looked at old stereoscopic pictures which