During these few days at Lek the ponies visibly
improved in condition—probably because a sharp eye
was kept on their food.
We had intended to leave Leh on the 23rd inst.,
but as this happened to be a Saturday, an inauspicious
day according to Mussulman belief, our departure was
delayed by twenty-four hours : this time we spent in
settling all outstanding claims, and giving advances of
pay to our men. However much we disbursed to the
people of Leh, there were always others who hovered
around, pressing purely imaginary claims, their one
idea being to get as much out of us as they possibly
could. These hangers-on followed us about like vultures
pursuing a dying animal, each one hoping a
tender morsel might fall to his share.
Hargreaves left early in the morning for some
burhel-shooting in Chimray nullah, intending to join
me three days later at Chimray village.
During the afternoon the “ vultures,” finding that
there was little else but bones left on their victims, gave
up the pursuit and departed. I spent the remainder
of my time at Leh with the Moravian missionaries,
whose generous hospitality brightens for all visitors
the dreariness of this desolate land of mountains.
Very little is known of the excellent work that is
accomplished by these good people; they are respected
and beloved by all with whom they come into contact,
and set an admirable example of simplicity and cleanliness
to the natives, besides performing many practical
works of charity.
The winter of 1902-3 had been a severe one in
this region, the snowfall being one of the heaviest on
record. The Chang La, a difficult pass of 18,000 feet,
over which we had hoped to make our way, had been
consequently completely blocked. However, the two
men whom we had sent forward to report on the
state of the road, returned in time to bring the
information that this Chang La route was now just
practicable. This was indeed good news, for by crossing
the pass a fortnight’s weary marching would be
saved.