
 
        
         
		We  had  determined  to  buy  some  yaks  here  to  
 carry  grain  for  the  ponies,  intending  to  let  them  run  
 loose  or  return  to  their  homes,  as  their  loads  became  
 used  up.  We  found,  however,  that  the  people  were  
 unwilling  to  sell,  and  arrangements  were made  to  hire  
 the  animals instead.  The  rate  of  hire was  the same  as  
 for  ponies,  viz.,  Rs.  15  a  month,  halting  or  marching,  
 the owners  feeding and  tending their beasts  and taking  
 all risks. 
 We  turned  in  early  that  night, with  the intention  
 of rising betimes  the  following morning to  superintend  
 the  weighing  and  packing  of  the  grim,  a  coarse  kind  
 of  barley.  All  our  plans were  frustrated,  however,  for  
 neither  lumbadar,  storekeeper  nor  workers  appeared  
 until the sun was high  in  the  heavens. 
 The  grim  was  removed  from  the  storehouse  
 through  a  small  hole  in  the  roof;  it was  then  cleaned  
 and hand  picked  (to  remove  the  stones)  by two  rows  
 of very dirty women ;  after  that,  it was  weighed.  The  
 process of  weighing was  begun  in  the  largest  scale the  
 village  could  produce,  a  small  hand-scale, with  a  4  lb.  
 stone  as  weight;  with  this  it  was  proposed  to  issue  
 over  14,000  lbs.  of  grim—an  operation  which  would  
 have  entailed a week’s steady work. 
 A  search  was  instituted  through  the  village,  and  
 an  8  lb.  measure  discovered;  this  was  a  decided  improvement  
 and  the work  now proceeded  comparatively  
 fast;  but  by  nightfall  barely  100  maunds  were  ready.  
 We were  obliged  to watch  the  men  and  women  while  
 they  worked,  or  they  would  have  emulated  the  fat  
 boy in PicTcwich  and dropped  off to sleep  at once. 
 Throughout  the  day  Sabhana  was  collecting  birds  
 for  our  table;  from  this  time,  indeed,  birds,  game  
 etc.,  were  shot  for  the  pot,  and  not  merely for  sport.  
 When  cartridges  are  scarce  and  there  is  no possibility 
 of  replenishing  the  stock,  it  is  desirable  to  obtain  
 the  largest  bag  with  the  smallest  expenditure  of  
 ammunition.  Acting  on  this  principle,  we  always  
 told  off  Sabhana  for  a  stalk  when  game-birds  were  
 plentiful,  as  he  usually  secured  a  good  percentage;  
 if  he  made  a  miss,  or  if  his  bag  did  not  come  up  
 to  our  standard  in  quantity,  he  received  no  share  of  
 the  spoils.  He  was  allowed  one  cartridge  to  four  
 pigeons,  one  to  two  Tibetan  sand-grouse,  and  one  
 to  every hare.  Sabhana  thus  became  thoroughly well  
 versed  in  the  efficacy  of  enfilade  fire,  and  much  time  
 was  spent  (more  particularly  with  the  pigeons)  in  
 getting a nice row of the birds—one behind another. 
 By the  evening of  the  third  day  a  fair  number  of  
 yaks  and  a  few  ponies  had  been  collected;  the  latter  
 were  a  ragged-looking  lot,  but  as  I  had  used  some  of  
 them the year  before,  I  knew that they were in  reality  
 much  hardier than  they  appeared. 
 We  left  Tankse  on  May  31st,  and  travelling along  
 a  grassy  valley  arrived  early  in  the  day  at  Muglib—  
 a  distance  of  only  eight  miles,  but  the  length  of  our  
 marches  had to  be regulated  by  the places  where grass  
 and  water were  to  be  found.  Moreover,  the  pace was  
 necessarily  slow,  as  the  yaks, which  carried  the  spare  
 grain,  are  never  quick  movers  at  the  best  of  times,  
 and at this period  were  so weak  that  their  rate of progression  
 never exceeded  lg miles per hour. 
 As  soon  as  we  arrived  in  camp  the  ponies  were  
 turned  loose,  in  order  to  allow  them  to  stretch  their  
 limbs  by  a  good  gallop  over  the  grassy  plain—a  
 proceeding which  they  hugely  enjoyed;  we  had,  however, 
   to  recapture  the  stallions  at  once,  as  their  fun  
 speedily  degenerated  into  an  ugly  fight,  in  which  one  
 received  a bad wound in  the side. 
 The stream was teeming with  snow-trout,  and  since