of surmounting difficulties in the way of bad going;
they felt the strain, certainly, but even when carrying
160 lb. loads proved themselves far superior to the
unburdened ponies. Their capacity for struggling
through deep and broken snow, over protruding rocks
and treacherous hollows, is most marvellous.
Many of the men suffered severely from the effects
of the great altitude. This “ mountain-sickness ” is a
peculiar disease, which affects different individuals in
different ways and with varying intensity. The more
common symptoms are severe headache, particularly
affecting the back of the skull, giddiness, vomiting and
great exhaustion. No certain cure has yet been discovered
for it, but undoubtedly the best remedy is to
get to a lower altitude as rapidly as possible. A good
preventive is to eat frequently small quantities of
food — and for this chocolate is invaluable. It is
a remarkable fact respecting this unpleasant malady
that it appears to attack its victims more severely on
certain mountains and passes than on others, though the
circumstances and surroundings may be precisely similar.
One may, however, become immune to it in time.
On reaching Durgu, we were met by a bevy
of young girls, nicely dressed and washed for the
occasion; now that they had removed the covering
of dirt from their faces, it was surprising to see what
fresh, rosy complexions the younger girls possessed.
These fair damsels offered us milk, eggs and native
beer, while one of them discoursed sweet music for
our benefit on a flute of primitive but ingenious
design. A rest-house had been well cleaned and prepared,
and in this we were soon installed, though
it was long after dark before the last stragglers of
the party came in and all was quiet for the night.
A short march of eight miles along the grassy
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