fear our own outward appearance was not calculated to
produce any great effect, for khaki uniform which has
seen a year’s campaigning does not lend itself to scenic
impressions.
We then took our departure, bowing and receiving
in return a smile and a courteous inclination of the
head, and so ended a most unique experience.
On leaving the building a more informal visit
was paid to the Prime Minister, whose house was
situated close by. His pleasant face was already well
known to us. He was a monk of high estate, having
the appearance of one of the genial, well-fed abbots of
England in olden time. He made us as comfortable as
possible, and again the inevitable tea and cakes were
brought in. Despite his protests, we could not tackle
these, and so, after a short stay, left his pleasant little
home, and once more mounting our ponies, rattled
away to the town, through the usual crowd of sightseers
and whining beggars.
On the 16th October a visit was paid to the Tashi
Lhumpo, the most beautiful monastery in Tibet, and
well did the journey repay us. The lamasery consists
of a number of temples and dwelling-houses, situated on
the lower slopes of a rocky hill, and inhabited by about
4500 lamas. The buildings are constructed of stone,
and many are of considerable size, consisting of from
two to three storeys. The houses are whitewashed
from top to bottom, whilst the woodwork of the roofs
is in places painted red. The main wonder of the
place, however, lies in the golden tombs of the five
previous Tashi Lamas, their gilded roofs rising high
above the surrounding houses. Outside the walls
which enclose the whole of the buildings we were met
by the head monks, who conducted us through the
more important places of interest. Several of the halls