Although, hindered by the clouds, the view from
the summit of the mountain was very fine. The
large lake, first seen on July 9th, was visible, and,
on closer inspection, proved to be even larger than
at first supposed; to the east the country seemed
to consist of rolling downs and valleys covered with
rich grass; southwards, about thirty miles away, was
a range of rugged hills, through the centre of which
ran an ideal pass, level with the plain and about one
mile wide. Beyond this range we could see nothing,
and therefore concluded that there was a diminution
in the height of the country in that direction.
On returning to camp, the Kashmiris came with
a complaint that the drivers were consuming more
than their fair share of rice and flour; we, accordingly,
had a redistribution of stores that afternoon,
much to the disgust of not only the Argoons, but
also of Abdul Khalik. While the work was in progress,
the brilliant idea was conceived of overhauling
once again the kits and baggage of the men.
These had all been carefully examined only a week
before, and we had flattered ourselves that the fact had
been sufficiently impressed on the men’s minds that
the loads must be reduced to an absolute minimum,
out of consideration for the weak condition of the
ponies. Our feelings, then, may be better imagined
than described on seeing, as the men sullenly and
reluctantly undid their kits, a motley collection of
rubbish—old shoes, bottles galore, empty tins, skins,
sacks, ropes, and, worse than all, numerous mysterious
rolls of something which looked like canvas, and
which proved to be the very tent sacrificed with
such reluctance and so much heroism a week before,
cut up and distributed in these weird-looking parcels.
With just indignation, then and there the whole collection
was placed in a heap and burned to ashes—a
proceeding witnessed with grief and rage by the men.
It was very amusing, however, to see the officious
zeal with which one rascal would drag to light
another’s illicit store, while endeavouring to conceal
his own by some wonderful sleight of hand. Our
poor animals were thus relieved of some 2£ maunds
of useless rubbish.
On the next day the weather again changed, snow
giving place to rain, whilst the wind came in icy blasts
from all directions; rain, however, has this advantage
over snow, that it does not deprive the ponies of their
food by covering up the grass. As the weather showed
no signs of improvement, the tents were shifted to a
more sheltered valley five miles farther on.
From here fresh attempts were made to ascend
the peaks and to complete the work, and in these
we partially succeeded, but only by labouring under
most trying conditions : the angles were taken “ in
thunder, lightning, and in rain ” ; so intense was the
cold that it was with the utmost difficulty that we
could work the theodolite or write with our stiffened
fingers. It was obvious that one of the worst districts
had been chosen in which to commence triangulation,
for during a four days’ sojourn at this place no less
than seven violent snow and hail storms visited us.
The range of mountains which lay to the west was
responsible for the bad weather, for great masses of
nimbus cloud perpetually hid the summits, while the
sky in every other direction was perfectly clear.
Hargreaves shot the only antelope seen, for we
were now out of the line taken by the migrating
does and young. During the expedition fortune was
decidedly with us in this respect, for, except on two
occasions, not a day passed without our having fresh