I f l i l i i t
the room partitioned off into cosy alcoves by thick
rugs, and th e balconies filled w ith flowers.
Whatever faults th e Tibetans may have, th ey are
not lacking in hospitality, and almost before th e
traveller is seated, cups of ho t tea, cakes, and sweets
are placed before him.
Fifteen miles beyond, th e valley widens ou t
into an open, fertile p la in ; th rough th e centre, by
many channels, runs th e tortuous and now sluggish
Brahmaputra.
In th e quieter reaches th e waters were almost
choked with fish ; no t little sprats, b u t fine fellows,
varying from one to three pounds apiece. I f fish of
this size lie in these side pools, i t is more th a n probable
th a t many fine ones sulk in th e deep, slow
runs, and under th e overhanging rocks. Indeed, such
is th e case, for more th an once a silent swirl and th e
tip of a g reat ta il were seen, as some monster rose to
the surface for his evening meal. Those which were
caught by th e Tibetans proved to be fair eating,
though decidedly bony.
On one occasion, a shoal of about five hundred,
averaging two pounds in weight, was seen lying in a
shallow stretch of th e river by th e side of th e road.
The water was three feet in depth, and as i t shoaled
gradually, th e idea occurred to us th a t, w ith th e help
of the ponies, it might be possible to drive th em into
shallow water and the re catch them by hand or force
them on to th e bank. Five mounted men were sent
in, and, 'forming line, commenced th e drive. A t first
all went well, and th e fish surged forward in a black
mass, augmented every few yards by other shoals.
Expectation ran h ig h ; th e ponies closed in, and w ith
the men shouting lustily on th e banks and beating
the water w ith sticks, th e tra p seemed complete. The