For countless ages, this track has been used by
caravans of yaks laden with the produce of Western
Tibet on their way to India, though, had Nature been
a little kinder to man, the route would have become
much more popular than it is, for the obstacles are
enough to discourage the stoutest heart, and the
majority of traders now take their caravans by the
rather longer, but moi’e level route, through the
Chumurti country to the north.
Ky-ni-puk is one of the few level spots to be
found in the district. It is not a particularly interesting
place in itself, but in comparison with the other
camps it is a paradise. The valley is nearly half a
mile wide, and possesses a good clear stream with
level grassy banks.
A surprise awaited us on arrival, for two Tibetans
were there, who informed us that someone, but they
did not know who, was on his way from India and
would likewise arrive that day, bringing great numbers
of men laden with fresh stores and provisions for our
use. We were all consequently on tenterhooks, and
eagerly awaited the new-comer. The whole affair
turned out rather ludicrous, and our disappointment
was great when the coolies began to arrive, twenty-
four only in number, and, in place of the expected
stores, laden with bedding and such-like articles.
The identity of the traveller was soon revealed,
for he came over to our tents immediately after his
arrival, bringing several letters and a large bundle
of newspapers, the latter kindly sent on to us by
Mr. Hart, Deputy Conservator of Forests at Simla,
and by the Moravian missionary at Spoo. Letters of
introduction told us that he was Thakur Jai Chand,
late Registrar of Lahoul, and now the first Trade
Agent for Gartok. His departure from Simla had
S a n d s t o n e C a v e s a t T ib u .
L e a v in g a R a v in e in t h e S u t l e j V a l l e y .