of Aru Tso. A fine stream, with smooth and easy
banks, ran straight towards it. So certain were we
that we had found a way out, that we there and then
determined to make a march of only three or four
miles, and then to give the ponies a long afternoon’s
rest.
Alas ! the scene changed rapidly. The going
became worse and worse, and after two miles the
road was completely blocked, narrowing down to a
mere gorge filled with immense boulders, over which
the river poured in a foaming torrent.
Our plight now seemed worse than ever, and it
appeared absolutely necessary to retrace our steps
along the road by which we had come, and then make
a detour of many marches. The thought of this was
so disagreeable that a halt was called. While thus
deliberating, one of the men spied the track of a wild
yak high up on the mountain-side, and this it was
determined to follow, for where the yak had gone we
might possibly succeed—though had we' known exactly
what was in store for us, I doubt whether we should
have risked the ponies’ lives.
An hour’s tedious climb brought us to a narrow ledge
of loose soil along which four wild yaks had recently
passed : they had chosen the only possible route for
man or beast. The track wandered in and out of
nullahs, up and down precipitous cliffs, and over
slippery ledges of rock and jagged spurs ; some of the
places were so steep that snow could not lie.
As we made our way slowly forward, snow fell
steadily, accompanied by a bitter wind ; but our exertions
kept us warm, for every few yards we had to
unload the ponies, pull and push them along places,
thé like of which they had never seen before. Then
the loads were replaced and the animals driven on
again for a few dozen yards, only for the process to
be repeated, over and over again.
We were, however, favoured by luck; for, incredible
as it may seem, three ponies fell from 100 to 200 feet
and yet sustained practically no injury; the accidents
all occurred at the same place, a shelving snow-clad
ridge, the ponies rolling over and over down the slope
till their progress was fortunately arrested by a
projecting rock. Here they lay kicking, with the
breath knocked out of their bodies but with no bones
broken. The men clambered down after them, and
managed with a little petting and coaxing to get
them on their feet again.
The only loads actually lost were fortunately those
which could most readily be spared, such as meat, etc.,
but some of the harder goods were much damaged.
Thanks to the untiring efforts of the drivers, the
whole caravan debouched into the plain at 5 p.m.,
having taken some nine hours to cover a distance
of three miles. It was, however, a most welcome spot.
All around was an abundance of rich grass, and,
to compensate for the loss of our meat, there stood
on the camping-ground a fine antelope, waiting to be
shot in the most obliging manner; in addition, a brace
of chikor and a hare were bagged, so that more was
gained than lost in the way of food.
Troubles were soon forgotten around the camp-fires,
and at an early hour all turned in to rest, for hardy
as the men were, they were exhausted by the fatigues
of the day.