ships, but have even been known to show gratitude
for kindness received—a feature not too common
amongst the natives of Kashmir.
We were much disappointed on inspecting the
ponies, for they were all, without exception, in a low
and weak condition. Khalik declared that he had
bought them all a month before and fed them fully
ever since, and in proof of this statement produced a
heavy bill for grain, etc.
We discovered afterwards, however, that he had
bought the ponies only a few days beforehand, and
had disposed of the grain to his brother, who possessed
some cows which required fattening up for the market.
The distended state of the ponies’ bellies showed
how they had been stuffed during the last few days,
doubtless with the idea that the foolish sahib might be
impressed by their splendid condition. Not only were
the animals in a miserably weak state, but a large
proportion of them were Yarkandis, which, as I have
said, we had told Khalik not to buy, as they are quite
useless for the highlands of Tibet; the remainder were
of various breeds—Kashmiri, Chang Tang, Zanskar and
Ladaki—varying in size from 11 to 14 hands, of
all colours and tempers, and having only one point of
similarity, viz., their wretched condition.
Khalik was, of course, ready with innumerable
explanations—ponies were very scarce and dear that
year; the mortality during the last winter had been
so great as to surpass all previous records; the ponies
were really quite young, and only seemed old; teeth-
marks were quite untrustworthy in that country, etc,
etc. It was, however, impossible to buy fresh animals,
as we wanted to start at once. We found that the
saddles were ready, and the head-stalls, picketing-
ropes, rugs, etc., nearly complete.
S h o e in g P o n ie s in L e h .
O u r C a r a v a n P o n ie s in L e h s e r a i .