CHAPTER IX
HOLY MANASAROWAR
The river near Truksum, on the banks of which our
next camp was pitched, is a stream of considerable size,
having a width of 150 feet. Probably during the rainy
season it overflows its banks, but even in this state
would be fordable in places. Now it formed a solid
sheet of ice, so slippery that gravel had to be thrown
on its surface before the ponies could attempt a crossing.
This camp had but little to recommend it, for
there was no grass and but little fuel, and it was not
to be wondered at that no herds of yaks or goats
were anywhere near. How different it was from the
scenes daily witnessed during the previous fortnight!
Between Sa-ka Dzong and Truk-sum especially, immense
herds of yaks were seen grazing in all directions,
sometimes in the plain and at others high up the
neighbouring valleys, and never a day went by without
our passing on the road great flocks of sheep, often
numbering two thousand or more.
With the exception of the staging bungalows, no
houses are to be seen ; for to build a house timber is a
necessity, and not a tree exists within 100 miles or
so of the place. On the low-lying ground and in
the sheltered nullahs where grass is plentiful, wandering
bands of nomads have taken up their abodes,
living in strange yak-hair tents, and with nothing in
the world to do but tend their herds.
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A R e l ig io u s M e n d ic a n t .