depicted ladies in crinolines, ancient locomotives, one
of the early Paris Exhibitions (the last thing one would
expect to find in Tibet), and were then shown over the
building. The monastery had but just recently been
renovated and decorated, the rooms were large and
airy, and though the paintings were brilliant, the
colours did not clash with one another. Full-blown
lamas, budding lamas, boys, and attendants swarmed
in the building, appearing in crowds from every passage
and opening, all dressed in the usual dingy red, the only
difference of shade being due to the age and dirt of the
garments. The same remark would apply to the condition
of their faces and arms. Their bodies were always
thickly covered with grease and fat, but the more
exposed parts suggested strongly that the lamas had
recently completed the sweeping of a chimney or the
cleaning out of a stoke-hole.
But time was passing, so bidding farewell to our
grinning clerical friends, we set out afresh. The little
Tibetan ponies, mostly from 11 to 12 hands high,
thoroughly enjoyed the scamper along level paths,
over stretches of grass and across water channels, and
at this rate we rapidly approached Shigatse, where we
were to camp. However, we were not to get there as
soon as expected, for two miles from the town deputations
of lamas and laymen met us, and after presenting
Captain O’Connor with silk scarves, begged us to dismount
and partake of more refreshments. There was
no help for i t ; we had to get down again, and on entering
two tents, which had been pitched close to the road,
were compelled to drink more tea and eat more cakes,
most of which, I must own, were at any rate quite nice
to look at.
Once more mounted, we approached Shigatse at a
more decorous pace. The house of the chief noble and
F rom S h ig a t s e F o r t l o o k in g n o r t h .
P a r t o f S h ig a t s e , l o o k in g e a s t f r o m t h e F o r t .