On the next morning a fine little pony was
brought in for inspection—reputed to be the champion
polo-pony of the valley. As we could not agree upon
the price, the difference was settled by the simple
expedient of tossing; the owner won, and the pony
became ours for 80 rupees.
May 21st was a busy day for us. We again sorted
and repacked the yakdans, then engaged more men;
this time all Ladakis, of whom I cannot speak too
highly. They are truthful, faithful and honest; hardworking
and as hard as nails; and always cheerful and
willing. I may add here that from the beginning
to the end of our journey not one Ladaki gave us a
moment’s trouble—from them we had no grumbling
or sullen looks.
Many Ladaki women gathered around at this period
and attracted our attention. Their general appearance
is best described by Dr. Gerard, who writes
as follows: “ In figure they are stout, waddling and
dumpy : . . . in face they are not beautiful, even when
young: when past their climacteric very unseemly;
and when old a picture of horrid ugliness. Their hair,
glistening with rancid oil, hangs loosely round their
sunburnt necks. Sometimes it is woven into tresses,
which braid the contour of the face ; but it is commonly
unregarded, and blows out in the wind, giving them
a shaggy appearance, like wild beasts.”
By the 23rd of May everything was complete;
the ponies had been shod—by no means a simple
operation—and a cheerful and contented set of men
engaged. In addition to other stores, 2000 lb. of
flour, 2400 lb. of barley, 1400 lb. of rice, tea, sugar,
salt, spices, etc., were bought for the party; all this
was divided and packed into loads weighing 80 lb.
apiece—two of which were carried by each animal.