bye to all chances of crossing the passes beyond Gartok
this winter.
Pu-rang is the largest town in Western Tibet, and
as far as we could make out from the nomads, consists
of a large monastery, containing some two hundred
monks, and four hundred houses, the majority of the
dwellings being dotted about the plain and along the
banks of the river. The surrounding districts are
fertile, and produce as much grain as the natives
require for themselves, but not sufficient for export
as well.
Of all places in Tibet, it is the easiest to reach from
India ; for the lowest passes in the Western Himalayas
lie between 15 and 25 miles distant in a southerly
direction, and the three best known can be reached
from Almora—the Lipu Likh, 16,750 feet high, via the
Kali River; the Untadhaura, 17,590 feet, via, Milam;
and the Niti La, 17,000 feet.
The Lipu Likh is the most popular, for the roads
onward to Pu-rang are reported to be in fair condition,
though but little is in reality known about them, for on
only two occasions have Europeans visited the town,
and in each case the traveller received a hostile
reception.
Pu-rang is also historically interesting, for here the
Tibetans, assisted by the Chinese, in 1841 fought their
most famous battle, and completely defeated the Dogra
army sent by Raja Ranbir Singh of Kashmir, under the
command of the famous General, Zarawar Singh. It is
hardly remembered by historians, but to the Tibetans
it is a never-to-be-forgotten victory.
Zarawar Singh, flushed with success after his
rr brilliant and victorious campaigns in Baltistan, Zanskar,
and Ladak, determined to conquer Tibet and add the
whole of this great country to the dominions of his