almost opposite Dongtse ; we took with us the Sheb-
dung Lama. Nothing could have been more peaceful
and rustic than the long stretches of the plain dotted here
and there with little figures engaged on their farm
work. We stopped once to examine more closely
the elaborate head-dress of a couple of ploughing yaks,
much to the pleasure and pride of the clear-eyed
boy who was their driver. Everywhere the villagers
were pleased enough to see u s ; the first prickle of
green was rising from- the brown squares of irrigated
mud, and some of the trees were timidly putting out the
purple that precedes the green of spring. The nights
were still cold, though the heat in the middle of the
day was excessive, and the hot dry wind that scoured
the valley every afternoon still burnt up the vegetation
on the hill-sides and in other places where no artificial
moisture could supply sap for the young foliage. We
took the road on the right bank, not crossing over the
bridge at Tse-chen ; this road keeps a constant level
following the curves of the mountain-sides ten feet above
the valley flats. There was little enough to mark the
journey down. Carelessly enough we ambled along with
our two Mounted Infantry men, whom we had taken out
of deference to Colonel Brander’s wishes, rather than
from any real belief that then or thenceforward we
should be in actual need of them. Nothing could have
been more peaceful and promising than the affairs
of Gyantse at that moment ; we had come through
the town and— an unquestioned proof of our popularity
— the beggars had become both familiar and insolent.
It was a bright day and we had our luncheon with us.
The good people of the valley were always willing enough
to give us hospitality to the best of their ability, but
after all it was as well to have a couple of sandwiches
and a boiled egg. About twelve o’clock we paused
opposite Dongtse, lying out sleepily in the sun with
the great three-decker palace of the Pala family anchored
in the trees below. Very soon after this we rode through
a little hamlet with some name like Chi-lang. A sharp
turn round a projecting spur brought us face to face
with the little valley in which the monastery of Nyen