work in which recent repairs and new loopholes were
obvious every few yards. The latter were “ splayed ”
on the inside, contrasting strongly with the older useless
little slits which only allow a defender to fire straight in
front of him. Higher up, beside some houses which
are falling rapidly to pieces, was a new and well-built
barrack store-room,, in which thousands of pounds of
powder, tons and tons of supplies, and tens of miles
of matchlock fuse were found. Another hundred paces
to the left brought one to the door of the most interesting
series of rooms remaining in the jong. Darkened by the
blocking up of their windows, one cellar-like low room
leads into another— some little chapels, some living
rooms, some Store rooms. Out of these one came into
a little court with a rotten wooden ladder and a loyal
dirty grey watch-dog who exhibited more pluck than his
flying masters had. At the top of the ladder a step to
the left takes one into a small yard, one end of which
is occupied by a little gompa or temple. Looking in
from the sunlight one could just distinguish the great
dull gold figure and smiling, placid countenance of the
Master whose presentment no superstition or latitude
can either deface or materially change. Whatever
stage in art his devotees may have reached, the great
teacher’s own image remains the same from Japan to
Java, and the gaudy “ katags ” or ceremonial scarves
hide in Gyantse as severely simple a design as you may
find at Kamakura or Mandalay. One large turquoise
supplied the ever-present bump of wisdom on Gautama’s
forehead, but otherwise there was no decoration. But
when one entered the luxury that had been denied to
the central figure was seen to be lavished on the ornaments
that strew the kyil-kor or altar shelves beneath
The main approach to the citadel of Gyantse. View inside the main gateway.