and white. Or, perhaps, it will be more intelligible to a painter, if I
describe it as being compounded of pure white and a moderate tint
of vermilion, without the admixture of any other color; and therefore,
not strictly to be called the complexion of a European. Her
nair was exactly of the same woolly nature as that of her countrywomen,
but it was of a singularly pale hue, nearly approaching to
that which is termed flaxen. Her features, however, were those of a
true Caffre.
, Southward from this place, is a very elevated tract of land, called
Coudveld (Cold-land; or the Cold Country), which, seen from a
distance, presents the form of a table-mountain. On the summit of
this, there is a single farm-house; it was inhabited by a respectable
Dutch widow, who, among her neighbours, passed under the familiar
name of Hannah Coudveld. This spot is considered by every
Sneeuwberger, as undoubtedly the coldest place in the whole
colony.
Van Heerden assured me that, at his house, mow had sometimes
fallen in such quantities, that he had seen it lying of the depth of
two feet: but probably this depth is not usual, or, at least, it may
be partly occasioned by drifting winds. The places along the upper
part of the Sea-cow river, are said to be some of the coldest habitations
on Sneeuwberg (Sneeberg). That river, in the dry season of
the year, is merely a chain of ponds, called ‘ Zeekoe gatten’ (Seacow,
or Hippopotamus, holes;.
Near the house, were the largest ‘ Spanish reeds’ * which I had
observed in any part of the colony: but I do not recollect having
seen the Bamboo, which requires a warmer climate, growing at any
place on the Snow Mountains, or in the Achter-sneeuwberg.
After breakfast we took leave, and, resuming our journey, came
in three quarters of an hour to the Buffels rimer (Buffalo river), the
highest branch of the Camtoos river, one of the larger streams which
flow into the | Cape sea.’ On the banks of the Buffalo river, which
we now crossed three times, I noticed a willow, which appeared to be
* Arundo Donax L.
of a species different from the willow of the Gariep: the branches
were less drooping, and it was, here at least, a much smaller tree.
Burger's home stood near to the river, in an open, though not unpleasant,
situation. The building and the whole establishment were
not only the best on Sneeuwberg,but as far as my recollection serves me,
I have not seen a better farm-house in any district of the colony; and
no intelligence from this part of the world, would afford me more gratification,
than to hear that the Cape settlement had so far advanced in
improvement and riches, that every boor possessed so comfortable and
respectable a dwelling. It was built of red bricks, in the usual
Dutch style of architecture; and it appeared not only externally
neat, but was within exceedingly clean: and, if compared with the
houses of the greater number of farms in this part of the country,
it might seem to deserve the name of palace; although in reality
nothing better than an ordinary English farm-house. The surrounding
buildings and an excellent garden, rendered this place a little
village of itself, and almost an independent settlement. Here were
separate and complete workshops for, smiths, waggon-makers, and
carpenters; and to these, although not noted in my original journal,
I may, I believe, add, a corn-mill turned by a water-wheel. The
owner, who was a man far advanced in years, was acknowledged as
the greatest sheep-grazier in the colony; a fact which I had no
difficulty in crediting, when assured that he possessed 30,000 sheep,
besides other cattle.
Immediately after our arrival, servants were despatched on
horseback, to apprise the neighbours of the arrival of their minister,
and of his intention of holding a religious meeting on the following
day at this house; and, to invite them to attend. In the evening
all the household together with the slaves and Hottentots of the
farm, were assembled; when one of the parables of the New Testament,
was explained to them, and commented on, in a manner
suited to the capacities of the latter, for whose instruction more
especially, it was selected.
30th. The whole of my morning was employed in writing letters