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CH A P T E R V I I I .
F in d th a t the Cutter had heen hurned—Anxiety for the Beagle—Uxbridge
Sealer.— Beagle arrives — H e r cruize.—Bellaco Rock—San
Julian—Santa Cruz—Gallegos—Adeona—Death of Lieutenant Sholl
—Adelaide Sails—Supposed Channel of San Sebastian—Useless Bay
—Natives—P o rt San Antonio—Humming-birds—Fu eg ian s—Beagle
sailed—Sarmiento—Roldan—P o n d—W h ales—Stru ctu re—Scenery—
P o r t Gallant.
P oet Famine bore evident marks of having been visited in
our absence by the Indians, for a large fire, apparently recent,
had over-run the grass, and burned the trees upon Point Santa
Anna, particularly in that part where our boat had been so carefully
concealed. Fager to know whether she had escaped the
fire, I lost no time in hastening to the spot, directly after the
Adventure anchored, and found, as our fears had anticipated,
that she had been completely destroyed, scai-cely a vestige of
her wood remaining, and most of the iron-work having been
carried away; for which, doubtless, the Indians had set her
on fire.
The sheds for the cooper and armourer, which had been
erected with some pains, were also entirely consumed, and every
thing portable had heen carried away. Those things which
were of no use to them were either broken or burnt; but some
of our station poles on Point Santa Anna were left uninjured;
as well as the tablet erected to the memory of Mr. Ainsworth
and the boat’s crew; which was singular, because it was secured
by iron hoops—of great value, in their eyes.
From the fresh traces of horses in the neighbourhood, we at
first suspected the conflagration to have been caused by the
Patagonians; but we soon found we owed our loss to the Fuegians,
for in two new wigwams were strewed some remains of
our boat.
The last winter appeared to have been milder than that preceding
it, for last January, Mount Sarmiento and the hills to
the southward, over Fitton Bay, were so covered with snow,
that not a particle of the rock could be seen; hut this year
many bare spots were visible. Every thing else, however, indicated
a bad season, and the berberis bushes and arbutus shrubs
had scarcely any show of fruit; which was rather a disappointment,
as the berries of the former plant proved an agreeable
addition to our food last year. However, there was no scarcity
of birds, and with the seine we procured plenty of fish.
The Beagle’s long and unexpected absence caused us much
uneasiness, and some apprehension for her safety. Her visit to
Port Desire ought not to have occupied more than three days,
and her superior sailing should have enabled Captain Stokes
to rejoin us in the entrance of the Strait. People were sent
daily to look out for her, and every succeeding day increased
our anxiety.
A long succession of blowing and rainy weather much
impeded our progress with the Adelaide ; ljut the Hope was
hoisted out, and prepared for service.
Before daylight on the 14th I was informed that the Beagle
was seen in the offing. Blue lights were burnt, and lanterns
immediately shown to guide her to the anchorage ; but our
disappointment was great when the stranger proved to be Mr.
W. Low’s schooner, the Uxbridge. He had been sealing since
November in the neighbourhood of Noir Island, near the outer
entrance of the Barbara Channel, and was on his way to Cape
Gregory to meet his elder brother, who had heen collecting
sea-elephant oil at South Shetland. The Uxbridge had entered
the Strait from the Pacific, by the Magdalen ‘Channel,’ which
last year we thought a Sound, and had attempted to explore in
the Hope, but had been deceived by the abrupt change in the
direction of the Channel at Cape Turn.
At last (on the 28th), after the Beagle’s absence had been
protracted to more than a month beyond the time intended,
we were relieved from painful anxiety, and much rejoiced, by’
Mr. Tarn’s telling us he had just seen her, and in two hours
afterwards she arrived.
Captain Stokes, to my great surprise, told me that he had