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ground, and the anchor was dropped for the eighth time. The
threatening appearances of the clouds, and a considerable fall
of the barometer indicating bad weather, Captain Stokes
agreed with me in thinking it advisable to await the springtides
to pass the First Narrow : the ships were therefore made
snug for the expected gale, which soon came on, and we
remained several days wind-bound, with top-masts struck, in a
rapid tide-way, whose stream sometimes ran seven knots. On
the 28th, with some appearance of improving weather, we
made an attempt to pass through the Narrow. The wind
blowing strong, directly against us, and strengthening as we
advanced, caused a hollow sea, that repeatedly broke over us.
The tide set us through the Narrow very rapidly, but the gale
was so violent that we could not show more sail than was absolutely
necessary to keep the ship under command. Wearing
every ten minutes, as we approached either shore, lost us a
great deal of ground, and as the anchorage we left was at a
considerable distance from the entrance of the Narrows, the
tide was not sufficient to carry us through. At slack water
the wind fell, and as the weather became fine, I was induced to
search for anchorage near the south shore. The sight of kelp,
however, fringing the coast, warned me off, and we were obliged
to return to an anchorage in Possession Bay. The Beagle had
already anchored in a very favourable berth ; but the tide was
too strong to permit us to reach the place she occupied, and
our anchor was dropped a mile astern of her, in nineteen
fathoms. The tide was then running five, and soon afterwards
six miles an hour. Had the western tide set with equal
strength, we should have succeeded in passing the Narrow.
Our failure, however, answered the good purpose of making us
more acquainted with the extent of a bank that lines the
northern side of Possession Bay, and with the time of the turn
of tide in the Narrow; which on this day (new moon) took
place within a few minutes of noon.
As we passed Cape Orange, some Indians were observed
lighting a fire under the lee of the hill to attract our notice;
but we were too busily engaged to pay much attention to
their movements. Guanacoes also were seen feeding near
the beach, which was the first intimation we had of the
existence of that animal southward of the Strait of Magalhaens.
When day broke (29tb) it was discovered that the ship had
drifted considerably during the night. The anchor was
weighed, and with a favourable tide we reached an anchorage
a mile in advance of the Beagle. We had shoaled rather
SHddenly to eight fathoms, upon which the anchor was immediately
dropped, and on veering cable the depth was eleven
fathoms. We had anchored on the edge of a bank, which
soon afterwards, by the tide falling, was left dry within
one hundred yards of the ship. Finding ourselves so near a
shoal, preparations were made to prevent the ship from touching
it. An anchor was dropped under foot, and others were
got ready to lay out, for the depth alongside had decreased
from eleven to seven fathoms, and was still falling. Fortunately
we had brought up to leeward of the bank, and suffered
no inconvenience; the flood made, and as soon as possible
the ship was shifted to another position, about half a mile to
the S. F., in a situation very favourable for our next attempt
to pass the Narrow. This night the tide fell thirty-six feet,
and the stream ran six knots.
The ensuing morning we made another attempt to get through
the Narrow, and, from having anchored so close to its entrance,
by which the full benefit of the strength, as well as the whole
duration of the tide was obtained, we succeeded in clearing it
in two hours, although the distance was more than twenty
miles, and the wind directly against us, the sea, as before,
breaking repeatedly over the ship.
After emerging from the Narrow we had to pass through a
heavy ‘ race’ before we ‘ reached’ out of the influence of the
stream that runs between the First and Second Narrow, but
the tide lasted long enough to carry us to a quiet anchorage.
In the evening we weighed again, and reached Gregory Bay,
where the Beagle joined us the next morning.
Since entering the Strait, we had not had any communication
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