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and breaking in all directions, like water boiling in an immense
caldron. When through, and again in safety, I was
astonished at our fortunate escape. Looking back upon it,
only a mass of breakers could be seen, wbicli passed rapidly
to the westward, and therefore led me to suppose that tlie
‘ race’ was caused hv a meeting of tides; not by a strong tide
passing over a rocky ledge.
“ ‘ The land near Bell Cape is steep, high, and so rocky, that
we could not find any place at which to land. We went into
all the small coves, but they were so guarded by rocks as to
be impracticable. Sailing eastward, I at last found a small
cove, near Valentyn Bay, in which we hauled the boat ashore.
A small stream ran into it, near which were many wigwams,
but no natives could be seen.
“ ‘ 12th. We crossed Valentyn Bay, and landed near Cape
Good Success. I walked to the summit, and thence obtained a
good view of Staten Island, on the east; and all the coast westward,
as far as New Island. In the north-east corner of
Valentyn Bay, we found some Indians, living in one large
wigwam, without any canoes. There were eight men, each of
whom had a bow and a few arrows in his hand, and all,
except one, were clothed in guanaco-skins hanging down to
their heels, the woolly side being outwards. We obtained
several bows from them, by barter, but they were reluctant
to part with many arrows. One of the number wore a large
seal-skin, that I purchased with a knife, which, to my surprise,
he distinctly called ‘ cuchillo.’ They had some fine dogs, one
being much like a young lion ; but nothing we could ofier
seemed, in their eyes, to be considered an equivalent for his
value. Afterwards we examined Valentyn Bay, and found it
unfit for vessels, being exposed to a heavy swell, and afibrding
but bad anchorage.
“ ‘ On the 13th and 14th, a heavy gale confined us to our
cove, into which such numbers of wild-fowl came, for shelter
I suppose, that we shot as many as we wanted.
“ ‘On the 15th, 16th, and 17th, we were returning to the
Beagle, not without meeting difficulties and risks similar to
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those already mentioned, but which it would be as tedious
as unnecessary to relate.’ ”
“ Soon after the Master came alongside, Mr. Stokes also
returned, having been a long way into the channel first discovered
by Mr. Murray, and having examined all the shores
about its eastern communication with the sea. He met many
groups of Indians, but managed so as not to have any collision
or trouble with them.
“ 18th. Digging in various places on Lennox Island, showed
me that the soil is unlike that where the guanacoes were
seen on Navarin island, which is fit for cultivation ; this being
very moist, and too full of tussac and other roots, to be
serviceable in any agricultural point of view.
“ 19th. Natives had come alongside at various times, during
the last few days, to sell fish for old buttons and other trifles.
It was amusing to witness York and Boat taking in these
people, by their bargains. The same men who, two months
back, would themselves have sold a number of fish for a bit of
glass, were seen going about the decks collecting broken
crockery-ware, or any trash, to exchange for the fish brought
alongside by these ‘ Yapoos,’ as they called them; not one
word of whose language did they appear to comprehend. Lieut.
Kempe returned from an unsuccessful excursion to Navarin
island in search of guanacoes. He saw many, but could not
get within shot. The footmarks of a puma were noticed by
him in several places.
“ 23d. After obtaining a few sights of the sun, for the
chronometer rates, we sailed from Lennox harbour, a very
secure place for small vessels; but, as it is rather shallow,
ships drawing more than fourteen feet of water should anchor
outside the entrance, where they would be safe, and in smooth
water, excepting when a south-east gale blows, with which
wind they would not, in all probability, wish to remain at
anchor. The soundings are regular in the offing, and there
is anchoring ground every where in the vicinity. Wood and
water may be obtained, in any quantity : wild fowl and fish
are also to be had, but not in abundance. The easiest way
V O L . I . 2 G
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