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could be more convenient than this for such purposes as wooding
and watering ; and we took advantage of it to the utmost by
filling the ship’s hold. The water casks were filled in our boat,
in perfectly smooth water, and the wood was cut close to the
water side.
“ 6th. A pai-ty of twelve, consisting of the Purser, Mr. W.
AVilson, Mr. Megget, eight seamen and myself, set out from
the ship, intending to walk to Cape Gloucester. AVe landed in a
valley at the N.AV. corner of the harbour and began our march,
two men carrying the tent, and the others our instruments and
provisions; we had arms also, in case of meeting Indians. Difii-
cult travelling, with such a cargo, very soon obliged us to stop
and rest, but by continual changes with the heaviest loads, and
great exertion on the part of those who carried them, we got
over two-thirds of our journey in the course of the day, and at
night pitched our tent, and defied the rain which poured incessantly
until seven the following morning; when every height
was covered with snow, as if it had been the middle of winter.
“ 7th. As soon as we had breakfasted we moved on again,
and at noon reached the foot of a mountain which forms the
Cape. Leaving the others to pitch our tent and cook some victuals,
Mr. AATson, Mr. Megget, and two seamen, ascended the
mountain with me. A very severe task we had, but at last
gained the highest pinnacle, where there was just room to
place the theodolite and kneel by it, at the risk of a puff of
wind canting us over either side. A stone moved from its place,
would have reached the water as soon from one side as from
the other. It was not a very clear day, but sufficiently so to
enable me to gain the desired angles and bearings. From
this summit I had a clear view of that dangerous place Breaker
Bay, and was more confirmed in the idea I had formed of it,
and rejoiced that I did not stand farther in with the Beagle.
Having thus succeeded, and buried two memorials, one cased
in tin and the other in a bottle, we filled our pockets with
pieces of the rock and returned ; rather too quickly, for the
steepness of the hill assisted us more than we wished. During
our absence some Fuegians had appeared, who were quiet and
inofiensive; but they seemed very distrustful of us, and, before
sun-rise next morning, were all gone except one man. These
natives seemed to he very active and went up the mountain in
about half the time that our party required. They had two
canoes with them, but how they had reached this place by
water was puzzling, when the exposed bay they must have
crossed and the prevailing weather were considered. Perhaps
they had carried their canoes overland, being rather like the
Chilote piraguas, made of boards sewed together.
“ 8th. AVe heard the voices of the Fuegians at day-break
this morning ; but at four o’clock only one old man remained,
who was probably left to watch us. AVe began our return,
rather stiff from previous days’ exertions, and looking dismally
at the high rugged hills between the Beagle and ourselves. The
first ascent on our way back was the worst of aU : how the men
cai-ried their cargo so well astonished me, for with a very light
load I was glad to rest frequently. Breakfast revived us, and
by taking afterwards a better line we avoided the steepest hills
and found much easier walking. AA^hile resting at our meal
the weather was so clear that I got bearings of Cape Inman
and other points more than fifty miles distant. There was very
little variety or novelty in this walk through a Fuegian island.
The same kind of scenery and the same species of plants and
shrubs were found which we had seen every where else in
Tierra del Fuego. Being more or less rocky made the only
change. Of quadrupeds, excepting otters and dogs, I saw no
traces, nor do I think any were to be found. A large kind of
snipe, by some called a woodcock, and quails, of a large and, I
think, peculiar species, were often seen and shot. The latter
are not by any means so well tasted as the European quail,
and their flesh is darker and coarser. At seven this evening we
were again on board the Beagle, not a little tired.
“ Should any future voyager feel inclined to make a similar
excursion towards Cape Gloucester, he had better not think
too lightly of his task.
“ 9th. Mr. Murray returned, having been into many openings
between the islands to the eastward, and having collected