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must have sunk with all her heavy cargo, to us invaluable.
The plug had worked out by her rolling:—I seldom left her
afloat at night after this warning. Having saved the boat,
made me think less of all our things being wetted, and of some
of the instruments being almost spoiled.
“ At daylight, on the 8th, we pulled along shore, with the
wind against us, and reached Point York before the tide made
strongly ; but that place we could not pass ; and sooner than
give up an inch of ground, let go our grapnels, in the middle of
a race of tide, that tumbled in over both gunwales, and ran past
us at the rate of five knots. A t one p . m . it slackened, and we
pulled on into Bachelor River, very glad to get so good a place
to dry our clothes, and put the boats to rights. Three deserted
wigwams gave us shelter; and while some made fires, others
went to collect shell-fish, or shoot birds. Though the season
was so far advanced, some shrubs were in flower, particularly
one, which is very like a jessamine, and has a sweet smell.
Cranberries and berberis-berries were plentiful: I should have
liked to pass some days at this place, it was so very pretty;
the whole shore was like a shrubbery. I cannot account for the
exaggerated accounts of the Fuegian coasts given by some
voyagers : it is true that the peaks of the mountains are
covered with snow, and those sides exposed to the prevailing
west winds are barren, and rugged; but every sheltered spot
is covered with vegetation, and large trees seem to grow almost
upon the bare rock. I was strongly reminded of some of the
Greek islands in winter, when they also have a share of snow
on their mountains.
May 9th. The tide carried our boats rapidly up the Jerome
Channel, which, though narrow, is quite free from danger.
The west shore is very high, and steep, and well covered with
wood ; the eastern is lower, and less woody.
“ Having passed this channel, we entered the mysterious
Indian Sound, with all that anxiety one feels about a place, of
which nothing is known, and much is imagined. I hoped to find a
lai'ge river; and the strong tide setting up the channel convinced
me that there was a body of water inland, but of what nature
remained to be discovered. At dusk we put into a small creek,
and secured the boats, hauling up the whale-boat on the sand.
When too late to remove, we found the place of our bivouac
so wet and swampy, that nearly two hours were occupied in
trying to hght a fire. Supper and merry songs were succeeded
by heavy rain, which continued throughout that night and
the next day without intermission.
“ 10th. Continual hard rain prevented our moving: the whaleboat’s
men were thoroughly drenched in their tent during the
night; but made a better one in the morning. The cutter, having
a tarpaulin cover, gave her crew a better lodging; and although
a small and loaded boat, only twenty-four feet long, could not
be expected to allow much room to a dozen sleepers, during
such weather, with the help of our blanket bags,(m) we did
very well.
“ 11th. During this night, also, it rained very hard. Farly
the next morning, however, it cleared a little, and we got
under-weigh. When in the fair-way our hopes were much excited
; for beyond a high island, like a sugar-loaf, appeared
an opening without land. I tasted the water repeatedly, fancying
it less salt, and that we were approaching a river.
“ Less salt it might have been, from the number of waterfalls
dashing down the mountains on each side of the
channel, which is here about two miles wide, with a current,
or rather stream of tide, running at the rate of two knots an
hour.
“ At noon, we reached the Sugar Loaf: it cost a struggle
to get to the top with the instruments; but the view repaid
me. For three points of the compass towards the north-east, I
could see no land, except two islands ; and the farthest extreme
to the eastward, appeared to me distant, at least, thirty miles.
No mountains or high land could be seen to the north or east;
the country seemed there to change its character, and become
OnJ Each officer and man, when detached from the Beagle during a
night, carried a blanket, or large poncho (sewed up, and w ith a drawing-
string, like a large bag), in which they slept,'and found much comfort and
warmth.—B. F.