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so very steep and slippery was the summit, that we were obliged
to go on our hands and knees, forcing them as deeply into the
snow as possible, to avoid sliding down again. The highest
point is not visible from Port Gallant.
“ While I took angles with the theodolite, the seamen made
a fire. It was well we carried some fuel and a tinder-box, with
a sheet of copper, upon which to kindle i t ; for without a fire
we should have been quite numbed. Standing in one place
for two hours, after being much warmed by exertion, made
us more sensible of the cold. The highest spot is but a few
yards wide, and by barometrical measurement is 2,280 feet
above the sea.» The height is, in truth, small; hut as the
mountain is so steep, and rises so abruptly from the sea, it
appears considerable.
“ When we had finished our observations with the barometer
and theodolite, we deposited a Memorial, containing a list of
the officers and crews of the Beagle and Adelaide—an account
of the object of their voyage, how far it had succeeded, and
where we were going—and a collection of coins, well-soldered
up in a tin case—upon the bare rock ; and made a great pile of
stones over it.
“ Having again examined the barometer, we began to
descend; for the sun disappearing behind the distant mountains,
warned us that it was time to return. We had enjoyed
a magnificent view on all sides, and were reluctant to leave our
station. In descending, we made rapid progress at first, sliding
many yards together down the soft snow; but, by the time
we reached the woody part, it was getting dark, and having
foolishly tried to return by a straight line, instead of going
round, we found steep cliffs, and ravines covered with rotten
trees, which perplexed us exceedingly. Darkness, and the
deep snow, much increased our dilemma; yet we could not
resist laughing heartily at the ludicrous scrapes some of the
party got into; one man was rather a-head, looking for a way
to descend a steep place, when the snow slipped from under
him, and down he went, about eighty feet, partly sliding,
* By angular m easurement it was found to be 2,270 feet.
partly falling, but quite against his consent. What he did by
accident, we were obliged to do, because there was no alternative
; so away we slid, one after another, like so many sledges
upon Russian ice-hills, holding the instruments as we could,
by one hand, while the other was employed to check or steady
us. With a little more of this sort of work, and some strug-
slino- through the wood at the bottom, we reached the shore,
where a boat was waiting for us, and at about eight arrived on
board, in a half-wet, half-frozen condition.*
“ 19th. Every thing was brought on board, the ship unmoored,
and all made ready for our departure next morning.
“ 20th. Sailed from Port Gallant, leaving the Adelaide to
rate her chronometers, and rejoin us before leaving the Strait.
In the evening we anchored in Elizabeth Bay, after a severe
day’s struggle against a strong and contrary wind, with much
rain.
“ 21st. Blowing hard again this morning from the N.W.,
with a great deal of rain. Weighed and made sail under reefed
courses and treble reefed topsails, but the wind and tide were
more than a match for us, so we stood across into Whale
Sound, and worked up under the lee of Carlos Island, finding
the tide there rather in our favour. The ‘ williwaws’ (I know
no better name for the sudden gusts that come off the high
land) gave us some trouble, occasionally laying us almost on
our beam ends. At half past two I was induced to anchor
under the lee of the south-east extremity of Carlos Island,
and thought our day’s work was repaid by a snug position close
to a weather-shore, besides having made some little progress;
but after dark the wind became more violent, and a williwaw
drove us out into deep water. We set the storm sails, which,
with the weather-tide, known to be then making strongly, I
hoped would take her a-head sufficiently to clear Rupert Island
(lying under our lee), and all hands then went to the capstan ;
but while heaving-in the cable, our bower anchor again caught
the ground and brought us up. We veered away cable
• ’]'he wristliands of our shirts, and all our outer clothes, were coated
with icc, while our inner clothing was wet through.