three children, had escaped by swimming ashore during the
preceding night. Thus, after much trouble and anxiety, much
valuable time lost, and as fine a boat of her kind as ever was
seen being stolen from us by these savages, I found myself
with three young children to take care of, and no prospect whatever
of recovering the boat. It was very hard work for the
boats’ crews, for during the first ten days we had incessant
rainy weather, with gales of wind; and though the last few
days had been uncommonly fine, the men’s exertions in pulling
about among the coves, and in ascending hills, had been extremely
fatiguing.
“ AVhile the bad weather lasted, the men’s clothes were seldom
dry, either bj day or night. Frequently they wwe soaked by
rain during the greater part of the day, and at night they were
in no better condition; for although a large fire (when made)
might dry one side, the other as quickly became wet. Obliged,
as we were, to pitch our small tent close to the water in order
to be near our boat;—and because every other place was either
rocky or covered with wood ;_w e were more than once awakened
out of a sound sleep hy finding that we were lying partly in
the water, the night-tide having risen very much above that
of the preceding day : although the tides should have heen at
that time ‘ taking off’ (diminishing).
“ Sometimes extreme difficulty was found in lighting a fire,
because every thing was saturated with moisture; and hours
have been passed in vain attempts, while every one was shivering
with cold,—having no shelter from the pouring rain,—and
after having heen cramped in a small boat during the whole
day.
“ In Courtenay Sound I saw many nests of shags (corvorants)
among the branches of trees near the water: until then,
I had understood that those birds usually, if not invariably,
built their nests on the ground or in cliffs.
“ Much time had certainly been spent in this search, yet it
ought not to be considered as altogether lost. Mr. Stokes had
been hard at work during my absence, making plans of the
harbours, and taking observations, and I am happy to say, that
I had reason to place great confidence in his work, for he had
always taken the utmost pains, and had heen most careful. My
wanderings had shown me that from the apparent sea coast
to the base of that snowy chain of mountains which runs eastward
from the Barbara Channel, there is much more water
than land, and that a number of islands, lying near together,
form the apparently connected coast; within which a wide
sound-like passage extends, opening in places into bays and
gulfs, where islands, islets, rocks and breakers, are very
numerous. These waters wash the foot of the snowy chain
which forms a continued barrier from the Barbara Channel to
the Strait of Le Maire. This cruise had also given me more
insight into the real character of the Fuegians, than I had
then acquired hy other means, and gave us all a severe warning
which might prove very useful at a future day, when
among more numerous tribes who would not be contented
with a boat alone. Considering the extent of coast we had
already examined, we ought to be thankful for having experienced
no other disaster of any kind, and for having had the
means of replacing this loss.
“ I became convinced that so long as we were ignorant of the
Fuegian language, and the natives were equally ignorant of
ours, we should never know much about them, or the interior
of their country; nor would there be the slightest chance of
their being raised one step above the low place which they then
held in our estimation. Their words seemed to be short, but
to have many meanings, and their pronunciation was harsh
and guttural.
“ Stewart Harbour, in which the Beagle remained during
the last boat cruise, proved to be a good one, and, having
three outlets, may be entered or quitted with any wind, and
without warping. Wood and water are as abundant as in other
Fuegian harbours ; and it may he easily known by the remarkable
appearance of Cape Castlereagh, which is on the island
that shelters the anchorage from the S.W. wind and sea. The
outlets are narrow, and can only be passed with a leading wind ;
but if one does not serve, another will answer. It should be