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increased rapidly to a strong gale ; and scarcely were we fairly
freed from the channel, than we found ourselves in a heavy
confused sea. Anxious to clear the entrance, I had not waited
to hoist in the yawl, with which we had weighed one of our
anchors, expecting to find smooth water as we went ou t; but
the sea we met made it unsafe to tow her, and while hauling
up to hoist her in, she was so badly stove by blows received
from the violent motion of the ship, that we were obliged to
cut her adrift. This was a heavy loss. She was a beautiful
boat, twenty-eight feet in length,—pulled and sailed well, and
was roomy, light, and buoyant; her loss was second only.to
that of the ship.
“ We endeavoured to clear the Guaianeco Islands, by carrying
a heavy press of sail, but soon after midnight were obliged
to furl the reefed mainsail. Before daylight the wind shifted
suddenly to W. b. N., taking us aback by a violent squall,
with much vivid lightning and heavy rain. Our admirable
little vessel paid off without sustaining any damage; but for a
minute her situation was critical. At daylight, the land of
Cape Tres Montes bore W. ) N. (magnetic), distant four
leagues. The violence of the gale we had just had put it out
of our power to clear the g u lf; and, from the state to which we
were reduced by the loss of our yawl, both gigs being in bad
condition, and our cutter so much stove as to be useless, I considered
that it would not be justifiable to attempt proceeding
in a lone ship to an unknown and most stormy coast, without
a single efficient boat; so I resolved to hasten to Port Otway,
and put the boats into an effective state. We had baffling winds
all day ; but in the evening succeeded in reaching the harbour,
and anchoring nearly in our old berth. On the ISth and 14th,
we had a continued hard gale, with the usual accompaniment
o f heavy rain. The carpenters were, however, kept constantly
at work to render the cutter effective. On the 15th, the state
of the sick list caused me to require from the surgeon, his
opimon as to the ‘ necessity of a temporary cessation of surveying
operations.’ Mr. Bynoe’s reply stated ‘ that in consequence
of great exposure to a long-continued succession of
incessant and heavy rain, accompanied by strong gales, the
health of the ship’s company had been seriously affected, particularly
with pulmonic complaints, catarrhal, and rheumatic
affections; and that, as a recurrence of them would probably
prove fatal in many instances, a temporary cessation would be
of the greatest advantage to tlie crew, by affording an opportunity
of recruiting their health.’
“ On receiving the above communication from the surgeon,
I ordered the yards and topmasts to be struck, and the ship
covered over with sails. Precaution was used to prevent the
people from being subjected to frequent exposure, by not
employing any of them in boats, except once a day in procuring
muscles, and every thing was avoided that could in the
least interfere with the recovery of their health ; but this place
is exceedingly ill adapted for the winter quarters of a ship’s
company, as the woods that surround it, down even to the
water’s edge, allow no .space for exercise on shore, and there is
neiriier game nor fish to be procured, except shell-fish ; of
which, fortunately (muscles and clams), we found an abundance,
and they proved useful in removing symptoms of scurvy,
besides affording a change of diet. The place being destitute
of inhabitants, is without that source of recreation, which
intercourse with any people, however uncivilized, would afford
a ship’s company after a laborious and disagreeable cruise in
these dreary solitudes. Every port along this coast is alike ill
suited for a winter’s residence, and it was only our peculiar
situation that induced me to determine on making a short
stay at this place.”
Here poor Captain Stokes’s remarks and notes end. Those
who have been exposed to one of such trials as his, upon an
unknown lee shore, during the worst description of weather,
will understand and appreciate some of those feelings which
wrought too powerfully upon his excitable mind.
The Beagle remained quiet until the 29th of June, when the
surgeon reported “ the crew sufficiently healthy to perform
their duties without any material injury to their constitutions.”