i
ii,
throughout the day. During the night the weather became
rather more moderate ; but on the morning of the 31st, the wind
again increased to a gale, and towards noon, the williwaws were
so violent, that our small cutter, lying astern of the ship, was
fairly capsized, though she had not even a mast standing. The
ship herself careened, as if under a press of sail, sending all
loose things to leeward with a general crash (not being secured
for sea, while moored in so small a cove), but so rapidly did
these blasts from the mountains pass by, that with a good scope
of chain out, it was hardly strained to its utmost before the
squall was over. While the gale was increasing, in the afternoon,
the topmasts were struck ; yet still, in the squalls, the vessel
heeled many strakes when they caught her a-beam. At night
they followed in such rapid succession, that if the holding-
ground had not been excellent, and our ground-tackle very
strong, we must have been driven on the rocks.
“ Under the lee of high land is not the best anchorage in
these regions. When good holding-ground can be found to
windward of a height, and low land lies to windward of the
anchorage, sufficient to break the sea, the place is much to be
preferred ; because the wind is steady and does not blow home
against the height. The lee side of these heights is a great deal
worse than the west side of Gibraltar Rock while the strongest
Levanter is blowing.
“ Considering that this month corresponds to August in
our climate, it is natural to compare them, and to think how
hay and com would prosper in a Fuegian summer. As yet I
have found no difference in Tierra del Fuego between summer
and winter, excepting that in the former the days are longer, and
the average temperature is perhaps ten degrees higher, but
there is also then more wind and rain.
“ The gale still continued, and prevented any thing being
done out of the ship. However safe a cove Mr. Murray might
have found, his time, I knew, must be passing most irksomely,
as he could not have moved about since the day he left us.
He had a week’s provisions, but with moderate weather would
have returned in three days.
“ Feb. 2d. Still very squally and unsettled. This gale began
at N.N.W., and drew round to S.S.W. Much rain comes
usually from the N.W. quarter; and as the wind draws southward,
the weather becomes clearer. The squalls from the
southern quarter bring a great deal of hail with them.
“ 3d. I was enabled to take a round of angles from Horace
Peaks, over the ship, the sky being clear near the horizon. The
theodolite had been left near the top since the 28th, each day
having been too bad to use it. These peaked hills required time
and exertion in the ascent; but the wide range of view obtained
from their summits on a clear day, amply repaid us for both.
I f the height was sufficient, it gave a bird’s-eye view of many
leagues, and showed at a glance where channels lay, which
were islands, and what was the nature of the surrounding land
and water. The shattered state of all these peaks is remarkable :
frost, I think, must be the chief cause.
“ After being deceived by the magnetism of Mount Skyring
and other places, I never trusted the compass on a height, but
always set up a mark near the water, at some distance, and
from it obtained the astronomical bearing of my station at the
summit. This afternoon we prepared the ship to proceed as soon
as the master should arrive.
“ 4th. Moderate weather. I was surprised that the master
did not make his appearance; yet, having full confidence in
his prudent management, and knowing that he had heen all
the time among islands, upon any one of which he could
haul up his boat and remain in safety during the gales, I did
not feel much anxiety, but supposed he was staying to take
the necessary angles and observations, in which he had been
delayed by the very bad weather we had lately experienced.
“ At three this morning (6th), I was called up to hear that
the whale-boat was lost—stolen by the natives ; and that her
coxswain and two men had just reached the ship in a clumsy
canoe, made like a large basket, of wicker-work covered with
pieces of canvas, and lined with clay, very leaky, and difficult
to paddle. They had been sent by the master, who, with the
other people, was at the cove under Cape Desolation, where