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“ The night was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen;
nearly calm, the sky clear of clouds, excepting a few large
white masses, which at times passed over the bright full moon :
whose light striking upon the snow-covered summits of the
mountains by which we were surrounded, contrasted strongly
with their dark gloomy bases, and gave an effect to the scene
which I shall never forget.
“ At daylight, on the 20th, we were close to Lyell Sound,
and stood along its west side, looking for an anchorage, until
we found a very good harbour, about a mile inside Mazaredo
Point.
“ I then went away, with two boats, to examine the Sound,
leaving the master to sound and plan the inner harbour.
“ Kempe Harbour, within Lyell Sound, would hold six large
ships in security; but, like most of the harbours hereabouts,
access is difficult, on account of the squaUs off the high land,
which are so irregular, and often violent.
“ During the night of the 21st, it blew strong in squalls,
and the chain-cable kept us awake by rattling very much over
rocks; yet when the anchor was hove to the bows next morning,
it appeared to have been well bedded in stiff clay. To
these sounds we afterwards became familiarised.
“ Wednesday, 22d. Strong squalls from the south-eastward
during the night, and in the morning; when, being anxious to
reach Cascade Bay, I weighed, though the weather was thick,
and the wind against us. The flaws were so variable, that we
were two hours knocking the helm and sails about before we
could clear the anchorage, and move half a mile in still water.
I should recommend warping in and out of these harbours, in
preference to making sail: as it is far easier, if a ship is provided
with small hawsers and kedges: and the hawsers can
often be made fast to the rocks, or roots of trees.
“ The tide rises about four feet in Kempe Harbour; and
there is a place where a vessel might be grounded or careened
with perfect safety.
“ Mazaredo Peak (Bougainville’s Sugar Loaf) is an excellent
guide to Kempe Harbour; the valioy-like appearance of
the land also shows its situation to a vessel in the Straits. What
at first appears to be Lyell Sound is Kempe Harbour, the
Sound lies more to the left.
“ After passing Mazaredo Point, the land is rugged and
less woody; it is not very high, and has a peculiar, rounded
appearance, like the tops of loaves of bread.
“ There was slate in Kempe Harbour, which seemed to me
fit for roofing purposes.
“ In Cascade Bay we found the abundance of limpets and
muscles usual on these shores, and of particularly good quality.
The Indians live almost entirely upon them and sea-eggs, though
birds, and occasionally a seal, add to their subsistence. Vegetation,
both on shore and in the water, is most abundant. At
every step one sinks knee-deep in moss, grass, fern, or low
bushes. Trees seem to arrive hut seldom at perfection; the
climate is so moist that they rot while growing, before they
attain any size. Moss grows every where; each bough is
covered with it : and the water appears to be as favourable to
the growth of kelp as the land is to that of plants. The large
kind {Fucus giganteus) shoots up, from many fathoms depth,
to the surface, with strong stalks and large leaves.
“ 23d. A had day ; blowing strong, and at times raining.
Mr. Murray, Mr. Stokes, and I, went with three boats to continue
our work of exploring and sounding.
“ Saturday, 25th. We weighed and made sail; but the breeze
failed, and flaws came against us. While laying out warps,
and hanging by the stream-cable, a squall took the ship and
drove her against the rocks, but without doing her any injury,
for they were quite wall-sided. The main-yard and spanker-
boom were among the trees. We again laid out warps, and had
made some progress, when another strong squall obliged us to
go back into our anchorage, to remain until the hail, snow,
wind, and rain should cease.
“ 26th. An unpromising and wet morning ; but the heavy
rain being over, we weighed, and in a few hours reached the
western side of San Pedro Sound.
“ About a mile from the point we anchored in Jlurray Cove,
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