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In his journal Captain Stokes says :
“ Incessant rain and thick clouds prevented my completing,
until this day (19th), the observations necessary for making an
island, just outside the Harbour of Mercy, the southern end
o f my base, for the trigonometrical connection of the coasts and
islands near the western entrance of this weather-beaten Strait.
“ On the 20th, I weighed and beat to windward, intending
to search for anchorage on the north shore, where I might land
and fix the northern end of our base hne. In the evening we
anchored in an archipelago of islands, the real danger of whose
i-icinity was much increased to the eye by rocks, scattered in
every direction, and high breakers, occasioned doubtless by
reefs under water. We observed that most of the larger islands
have small banks of sand at their eastern sides, on which anchorage
may be found ; but for ordinaiy purposes of navigation,
this cluster of islands* need only be pointed out to be avoided.
The number and contiguity of the rocks, below as well as
above water, render it a most hazardous place for any square-
rigged vessel: nothing but the particular duty on which I was
ordered would have induced me to venture among them. Fore-
and-aft vessels might work with far less risk ; and as the rocks
are frequented by vast numbers of fur seal, a season or tivo
might be profitably passed here by a sealing vessel so rigged.
“ This morning (21st) I landed on one of the larger islands,
with Lieutenant Skyring, and having ascended an eminence
(Observation Mount) with the necessary instruments, fixed its
position, and made it the northern end of our base.
“ It was a beautiful, and clear day ; the Isles of Direction
(or Fvangelists), as well as every point of importance on the
adjacent coast, were seen distinctly during several hours.
“ My next object was to fix the position of Cape Victory,
and ascertain whether anchorage could be found in its neighbourhood.
Accordingly, we weighed early next morning (22d,)
and after extricating ourselves from this labyrintli (not without
much difficulty and danger), we beat to the westward. Violent
squalls, a heavy sea, and tiiick weather, which came on about
• Called the Scillv Isles.
noon, obliged me to choose the least evil, and run for the Harbour
of Mercy.
“ On the 23d, we went out again, and beat towards the
Isles of Direction, off which we passed a night under sail.
“ The morning of the 24th was very fine, and the wind
moderate. Leaving the Beagle to sound about the Isles of
Direction, I set out in my boat, with two days’ provisions,
towards Cape Victory. As we rowed along these rocky shores,
threading the mazes of the labyrinth of islets which fringe
them, we saw vast numbers of black whales, and the rocks
were quite covered with fur seal and brant geese.
“ After pulling, in earnest, for six hours, we landed upon
Cape Victory, the north-western limit of the Strait of Magalhaens,
and there, with a sextant, artificial horizon, and chronometer,
ascertained the position of this remarkable promontory.
From an eminence, eight hundred feet above the sea, we had a
commanding view of the adjacent coasts, as weU as of the vast
Pacific, which enabled us to rectify former material errors.
Late in the evening we were fortunate enough to get safely on
board again, which, considering the usual weather here and the
heavy sea, was unexpected success. This night was passed
under sail in the Pacific, and next morning we commenced our
return to Port Famine.
When within four or five miles of Cape Pillar, and to the
westward of it, a current was found to set southward, at about
two knots an hour. As we neared the Cape the wind fell, and
the Beagle was set rapidly towards those dangerous rocks,
called the Apostles. Fortunately, a commanding breeze sprung
up, and we extricated ourselves from the difficulty. While
passing Cape Pillar, I landed in a cove near it, and determined
its position. By sunset we had arrived near the Harbour
of Mercy ; and being becalmed, towed the ship in, with her
boats, until an anchor was dropped at the proper place.
“ On the 26th, we went to Tuesday Bay, and on the 27th
crossed the Strait, and anchored under Cape Parker. I have
rarely witnessed such a high, cross, and irregular sea as we this
day passed through, near the strange mass of rock, called by