ir
received, by offering him and all bis family a passage in
the Adventure, which he accepted; and on the 17th we left
Chilóe. In our way we touched at Concepcion, and anchored
at A^alparaiso on the 2d of January.
We remained there until the 11th of February, and then
sailed on our return to Rio de Janeiro, with the intention of
passing though the Strait of Magalhaens, and taking that
opportunity of completing some few parts, which our former
surveys had left unfinished. As the breeze, which, on this
coast, blows with the constancy of a trade wind, would carry
us close to the island of Juan Fernandez, I determined upon
visiting it, for a few days ; and then proceeding again to Concepcion.
We reached Cumberland Bay, on the north side of Juan
Fernandez, on the 16th, and anchored, within two cables lengths
of the beach, in ten fathoms.
I have seldom seen a more remarkable and picturesque view,
than is presented by the approach to Juan Fernandez. When
seen from a distance, the mountain of the ‘ Yungue’ (Anvil),
so called from its resemblance to a blacksmith’s anvil, appears
conspicuously placed in the midst of a range of precipitous
mountains, and is alone an object of interest. It rises three
thousand feet above a shore, which is formed by an abrupt
wall of dark-coloured bare rock, eight or nine hundred feet in
height, through whose wild ravines, broken by the mountain
torrents, views are caught of verdant glades, surrounded by
luxuriant woodland.
The higher parts of the island are in general thickly-wooded;
but in some places there are grassy plains of considerable extent,
whose lively colour contrasts agreeably with the dark foliage
of myrtle-trees, which abound on the island.
The Yungue is wooded, nearly from the summit to its base;
whence an extensive and fertile valley extends to the shore, and
is watered by two streams, which take their rise in the heights,
and fall into the sea.
This valley appears to have been formerly cleared and cultivated
by the Spaniards, who had a colony here ; for the stone
walls, which served to divide their enclosures, still remain.
From Walter’s account of Anson’s voyage, and the view given
with it of the commodore’s tent, there is no difficulty in determining
tliis valley to be the spot on which his encampment was
placed.
The island is now (1830) occupied, or rather rented from
the governor of Chile for a term of years, by Don Joachim
Larrain. The establishment consists of a superintendent (mayor-
domo), there called, ‘ the governor;’ and forty persons, who
are employed in the seal and cod fishery, and in drying fish
for the Chilian market. Their dwellings are erected on the flat
land, at the north side of the bay, where the soil is richer than
in other parts ; and where it is more sheltered from the squalls,
which, during strong southerly gales, rush down the valley of
the Yungue, the situation of the former establishment, with
great violence.
The remains of a fort, called San Juan Baptiste, are yet in
a tolerable state ; and from an inscription on the wall, it appears
to have been repaired, or completed, in the year 1809- It is
situated on a rising ground, about one hundred and thirty
feet above the sea, at the S.W. part of the bay, and overlooks
the village ; there are now no guns mounted, but, with a
few, it might be made very effective in a short time; and, from
its situation, would command the bay.
In the middle of the beach are some ruins of a four-gun
battery, and there are also traces of a fort at the N.W. end of
the bay.
At present, except wild-goats, wild peaches, figs, abundance
of fish, and excellent fresh water, no refreshments can be procured.
An establishment of forty persons, with very little to
do, might naturally be expected to cultivate the land, raise
vegetables and fruit, and rear poultry and pigs, to supply the
vessels, which frequently touch here for wood and water; but
it is not the character of the Chileno to take any trouble, unless
obliged, although his own comfort and advantage may be
materially Concerned.
The niayor-doino, however, told me that their attempts to