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Many large inlets and sounds look like channels; but on going
a short distance into them, you find dead water.
“ 29th. We passed through Jerome Channel, and reached the
bar, off Bachelor River, after dark; but the cutter got aground,
and gave us some trouble to float her again. Afterwards one
of the men was landed on the bar, and by liis walking in the
deepest water, and the whale-boat going next, we got into the
little river at nine o’clock, not sorry to be in safety. There are
tide races between the Jerome Channel, and Bachelor River,
which are sometimes dangerous; but as the breeze was moderate,
we passed them witliout difficulty.
“ May 30th. Employed chiefly in stowing the cutter afresh,
packing specimens, and preparing my boat to take what
remained of our provisions. At two next morning, when the
tide served, Mr. Stokes set out to return to the Beagle; and
having both wind and tide in his favour arrived early at Port
Gallant.
“ The wind increased after daylight, and blew strong, with
squalls. I waited a short time, but, having no hopes of its improving,
left the river. My boat was much lumbered, having
the chronoraeter-box, and more instruments than before ; yet
she pulled pretty well, even against the heavy squalls. After
landing at the west side of the entrance to the Jerome Channel,
to take bearings and angles, we pulled along shore to the westward,
and at dark hauled the boat up in a small sheltered
corner. After she was secured, we employed ourselves looking
for limpets and muscles for supper, by the light of a lanthorn,
as we had good appetites, and our provisions were scanty.
“ June 1st. We pidled along shore against a strong and
squally wind, and before evening nearly reached Cape Quod;
but not being able to pass it, stopped in a cove on the east side.
“ 2d. At the oars again, early, having a fine clear morning,
with the tide rather in our favour. By eleven. Cape Quod was
astern of u s ; and a long view of the Strait presented itself.
This part is very rugged and barren, and looks triste, indeed;
stiU wherever a tree can take root it tries to grow. This night
was passed on a small island at the west point of Snowy Sound.
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“ 3d. We began at daylight, and worked, from point to
point, up the sound, thinking it a channel. Two good anchorages
were found on the west side, but none on the east, except
a trifling cove between the little island and the land, whicli
would only shelter a small vessel. The night was passed on
an island five miles within the sound. It rained hard for
an hour before we landed, and all the night afterwards. Our
rest was not the most satisfactory, as the ground was wet and
swampy.
“ Two of the boat’s crew got into a hole under a tree
thinking they should be warm ; but in the middle of the night
they complained of not being able to get up, and of being half
frozen.
“ 4th. The rain ceased at times this morning, but the wind
continued. After going to the top of an island, we pulled and
sailed onwards, not having a doubt of soon getting into Whale
Sound. At noon, the passage appeared suspiciously small;
yet I could not doubt the fine large opening laid down in our
old charts, and proceeded until the shore made a sudden turn,
when, to my astonisliment, I saw a high black cliff stopping
farther progress. After a hearty growl, we turned back, and
landed to look for a sleeping place. Not a spot could we find
that was not wet like a sponge ; but night was closing in, and
obliged us to stay where we were. It was bitterly cold, all of
us were wet through, the ground was a mere swamp, we could
not get a fire to burn, and the frost was sharp.
“ After daylight on the 5th, we succeeded in making a
large fire, and spent two hours drying our clothes and warming
ourselves. In order to lighten the boat, no one carried more
clothes, since leaving the cutter, than those he wore, except one
shirt. We hastened back towards Charles Island, passing some
very remarkable glaciers, one of which looked like an enormous
frozen river, covering the whole side of a mountain. Many
portions were of a transparent blue colour, which, contrasted
with the snowy whiteness of others, and with the dark shadows
of bare rocky places, had a very striking effect. At noon, we
passed out of the sound, and steered for Charles Island, with a