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CHAPTER VI.
T re e s—Leave P o rt Famine—Patag-onians—Gregory Bay—Bs'sante—
Maria—Fa lk n e r’s account of the Natives—Indians seen on the borders
of the Ohvay Water, in 1829 — M aria visits the Adventure—
Religious Ceremony—Patagonian Encampment—Tomb of a Child—
Women’s employment — Children — Gratitude of a Native—Size of
Patagonians—Former accounts of th e ir gigantic height—Character—
Articles for barter—Fuegians living with Patagonians—Ships sail—
Arrive at M onte Video and Rio de Janeiro.
W h i l e detained by northerly winds, the carpenter and a
party of people were employed in the woods selecting and cutting
down trees to be ready for our next visit. After feUing
thirteen trees, from twenty-four to thirty-six inches in diameter,
eight were found to be rotten at the heart; but by
afterwards taking the precaution of boring the trees with an
augur, while standing, much trouble was saved, and fifteen
sound sticks of considerable diameter were cut down. We
found one tree, an evergreen beech, too large for any of our
saws; it measured twenty-one feet in girth at the base, and
from the height of six feet to twenty it was seventeen feet in
circumference ; above this height, three large ai-ms (each from
thirty to forty inches in diameter), branched off from the trunk.
It is, perhaps, the very tree described by Byron in his account
of this place. We only once saw it equalled in size, and that
was by a prostrate trunk, very much decayed.
In this interval of fine weather and northerly wind, we had
the thermometer as high as 58°, and the barometer ranging
between 20.80 and 30.00; but for two days before the wind
shifted, the alteration was predicted by a gradual descent of the
mercurial column, and a considerable increase of cold. On the
7th May, as there was some appearance of a change, we got
under weigh; but were hardly outside the port, when a northerly
wind again set in, and prevented our going farther than Fresh-
May 1827. i - a t a g o n i a n s— g r e g o k y b a y . 85
water Bay, where we passed the night. At last, on the 8Li,
accompanied by the Beagle, we proceeded on our course with
a strong south-westerly breeze, which carried us quickly up to
Cape Negro, when it blew so hard that I anchored off Laredo
Bay. At this anchorage we certainly felt the air much colder
and sharper than at Port Famine, arising from our being in
a more exposed situation, and from the approach of winter, as
well as from the severe south-west gale which was blowing.
After the gale had abated, we proceeded with fair weather
and a light breeze to the Second Narrow, when the wind fe ll,
hut the tide being in our favour, we passed rapidly through.
On a hill near us we observed three or four Patagonian Indians
standing together, and their horses feeding close to them.
A fire was soon kindled, to attract our notice, to which signal
we replied by showing our colours; and had we not already
communicated with these people, we should certaiMy have
thought them giants, for they “ loomed very large’ as they
stood on the summit of the hill. This optical deception must
doubtless have been caused by mirage: the haze has always
been observed to he very great during fine weaffier and a hot
day, arising from rapid evaporation of the moisture so abundantly
deposited, on the surface of the ground, in all parts of
the Strait.
As soon as the Patagonians found they were noticed, they
mounted and rode along the shore abreast of us, being joined
by other parties, until the whole number could not have been
less than forty. Several foals and dogs were with them. Having
anchored in Gregory Bay, where I intended remaining for two
days to communicate with them, I sent up a rocket, burnt a
blue-light, and despatched Lieutenant Cooke on shore to ask
for a large supply of guanaco meat, for which we would pay
in knives and beads. The boat returned on board immediately,
bringing off four natives, three men and ‘ Maria. 1 ns
rather remai-kahle woman must have been, judging by her
appearance, about forty years old ; she is said to have been
horn at Assuiicion, in Paraguay, hut I think the place of hei
birth was nearer Buenos Ayres. She spoke broken, hut intel