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and some people walking on the beach. While tlie ship was
standing off, I went to them, being the first savages I had ever
met. In the canoe were an old woman, her daughter, and a
cliild, and on shore were two Fuegian men with several dogs.
Their figures reminded me of drawings of the Fsquimaux,
being ratiier below the middle size, wrapped in rough skins,
with their hair hanging down on all sides, like old thatch, and
their skins of a reddish brown colour, smeared over with oil,
and very dirty. Their features were bad, but peculiar; and, if
physiognomy can be trusted, indicated cunning, indolence,
passive fortitude, deficient intellect, and want of energy. I
observed that the forehead was very small and ill-shaped ; the
nose was long, narrow between the eyes, and wide at the point;
and the upper lip, long and protruding. They had small, retreating
chins; bad teeth ; high cheek-bones; small Chinese
eyes, at an oblique angle with the nose; coarse hair; wide
ill-formed mouths, and a laugh as if the upper lip were immoveable.
The head was very small, especially at the top and
back; there were very few bumps for a craniologist. They
asked earnestly for ‘ tabac, tabac,’ but seemed very timid. We
bartered some biscuit and old knives for a few of their arrows,
skins, spears, &c.
“ Their canoes, twenty-two feet long, and about three wide,
were curiously made of the branches of trees, covered with
pieces of beech-tree bark, sewed together with intestines of
seals. A fire was burning in the middle, upon some earth, and
all their property, consisting of a few skins and bone-headed
lances, was stowed at the ends.
“ The young woman would not have been ill-looking, had
she been well scrubbed, and all the yellow clay with which she
was bedaubed, washed away. I think they use the clayey mix-
ture for warmth rather than for show, as it stops the pores of
the skin, preventing evaporation and keeping out the cold air.
Their only clothing was a skin, thrown loosely about them ;
and their hair was much like a horse’s mane, that has never
been combed.
“ April 14th. Anchored in Port Famine.
“ April 16th. Lieutenant Skyring went on board the Adelaide
with Mr. Kirke, five seamen, and one of the Beagle’s
whale-boats. Mr. Bynoe, the assistant-surgeon, also went as a
volunteer.
“ April 17th. The Adelaide sailed to survey the Magdalen
and Barbara Channels; after which she was to rejoin the Beagle
at Port Gallant. She soon got into a strong soutlierly wind, and
could make no progress, as the current was against her; she
therefore again stood into the bay, and anchored.
“ A sharply cold night made us remember we were far south,
although the weather by day had been mild. I have said
little about this anchorage, as it has already been described.
The appearance of the surrounding country is striking and
picturesque. Mount Tarn, with its patches of snow, rising
from thick woods, and the high snow-covered mountains in the
distance, with dark blue sea at their base, are very remarkable
objects.
“ ’We sailed on the 19th with the Adelaide, which had been
prevented from going sooner by strong and unfavourable winds;
and about noon we parted from our consort, whose course was
southerly, into the Magdalen Channel, while we went towards
LyeU Sound.
“ I cannot help here remarking, that the scenery this day
appeared to me magnificent. Many ranges of mountains, besides
Mount Sarmiento, were distinctly visible, and the continual
change occurring in the views of the land, as clouds passed
over the sun, with such a variety of tints of every colour, from
that of the dazzling snow to the deep darkness of the still
water, made me wish earnestly to be enabled to give an idea of
it upon paper; but a necessary look-out for the vessel, not
having a commissioned officer with me who had been in the
Strait before, kept ray attention too much occupied to allow
me to make more than a few hasty outlines. Under the high
land the Beagle had hut little wind, and night closed upon us
before we could gain au anchorage in Lyell Sound, so we shortened
sail after dark, and kept near mid channel until the
morning.