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of soft clay, varying in colour and consistence, and disposed in
strata running horizontally for many miles vrithout interruption,
exceptmg where water-courses had worn them away.
Some of the strata were very fine clay, unmixed with any
other substance, whilst others were plentifully strewed with
round siliceous gravel,* without any vestige of organic remains.
The sea beach, from high-water mark to the base of the cliffs,
is formed by shingle, ivith scattered masses of indurated clay of
a green colour.f Between the high and low tide marks there is
a smooth beach of the same green clay as the masses above-mentioned,
which appears to have been hardened by the action of
the surf to the consistence of stone. Generally this beach
extends for about one hundred yards farther into the sea, and is
succeeded by a soft green mud, over which the water gradually
deepens. The outer edge of the clay forms a ledge, extending
parallel with the coast, upon the whole length of which the sea
breaks, and over it a boat can with difficulty pass at low water.
The very few shells we found were dead. Strewed about
the beach were numbers of fish, some of which had been
throwTi on shore by the last tide, and were scarcely stiff.
They principally belonged to the genus Ophidium; the
largest that we saw measured four feet seven inches in length,
and weighed twenty-four pounds. Many caught alongside
the ship were, in truth, coarse and insipid; yet our people,
who fed heartily upon them, called them ling, and thought
them palatable. The hook, however, furnished us with a
very wlioiesome and well-flavoured species of cod {Gadus).
Attached to the first we found two parasitical animals; one
was a Cymothoa, the other a species of Lerncea, which had so
• Some of the specimens of the clay s tra ta consist, according to Dr.
Fitton, who haa kindly examined my collection, of a white marl not
unlike certain varieties of the lower chalk ; and of a clay having many of
the properties of fuller’s earth. The pebbles on the beach consist of
quartz, red jasper, hornstone, and flinty slate, but do not contain any
stone resembling chalk flint.
t D r. Fitton considers these masses of clay to bear a resemblance to
the upper green sand of England.
securely attached itself under the skin, as not to be removed
witliout cutting off a piece of the flesh with it. An nndescribed
species of Murcena was also taken.
Whilst we were on shore, the Beagle moved eight or nine
miles nearer to the Cape, where Captain Stokes landed to fix
positions of remarkable land. One peaked hill, from the circumstance
of his seeing a large animal near it, he called Tiger
Mount. Mr. Bowen shot a guanaco ; and being at a distance
in shore, unable to procure assistance, he skinned and quartered
it with his pocket-knife, and carried it upon his shoulders
to the boat.
Next morning the ships weighed, and proceeded towards Cape
Virgins.
When a-breast of Cape Fairweather, the opening of the
river Gallegos was very distinctly seen; but the examination
of it was deferred to a future opportunity. Passing onward,
the water shoaled to four fathoms, until we had passed extensive
banks, which front the river.
Our approach to the entrance of the Strait, although attended
with anxiety, caused sensations of interest and pleasure
not easily to be described. Though dangers were experienced
by some navigators who had passed it, the comparative facility
with which others had effected the passage showed that, at
times, the difficulties were easily surmounted, and we were
willing to suppose that in the former case there might have
been some little exaggeration.
The most complete, and, probably, the only good account of
the navigation of the Strait of Magalhaens is contained in the
narrative of Don Antonio de Cordova, who commanded the
Spanish frigate Santa Maria de la Cabeza, on a voyage expressly
for the purpose of exploring the strait. It was published
under tlie title of ‘ Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes.’
That voyage was, however, concluded with only the
examination of the eastern part, and a subsequent expedition
was made, under the command of the same officer, the account
of which was appended to the Cabeza’s voyage; so that Cordova’s
expedition still retained the appellation of ‘ Ultimo
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