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night. Contrary to my expectation, the wind did not much
increase; but the thick weather, and a heavy swell, induced
me to stand farther out than I had at first intended. At eleven,
P .M ., we wore and stood in until daylight on the 4th, when we
found ourselves so much to the southward, that the land about
Cape Pillar bore N. b. W., the Cape itself being shut in. We
steered for the land, hoping to turn the day to some account;
but those hopes soon ceased, for before we had run sufficient
distance to make a serviceable base line, the weather became so
thick as to oblige us to haul our wind. We saw just enough
to make out a number of rocks and breakers, lying at a considerable
distance off shore. After noon it was clearer, and we
again stood in-shore; but found that the current was setting
us so fast to the southward, that it was necessary to carry all
sail and keep on a wind, to avoid losing ground ; yet, with a
fresh, double-reefed topsail breeze and a deeply laden weatherly
vessel, we could not hold our own, and at seven in the evening
were close to an islet which lies off Cape Sunday. We had seen
very little of the coast thus far : the current had rendered the
patent log useless for measuring bases, and the weather was
very unfavourable for astronomical observations. The land
appeared to be high and mountainous, as far as Cape Deseado,
whence it seemed lower and more broken, forming a large bay
between that cape and Cape Sunday. Many rocks on which
the sea breaks violently be at a distance from the shore, besides
those two clusters called the ‘ Apostles’ and the ‘ Judges: ’ the
latter off Cape Deseado, and the former off Apostle Point, a
little south of Cape Pillar.
“ 5th. To our mortification, we found ourselves a great way
oif shore; and Landfall Island, which was eight miles to leeward
the last evening, was now in the wind’s eye, at a distance
of about six leagues. A strong wind, with much swell, prevented
our regaining lost ground in a northerly direction, I
therefore preferred standing to the S.E. by the wind, intending
to seek for a harbour, as it seemed hopeless to try to survey
this coast while under sail, with such obstacles to contend
against as a current setting about a mile an hour, and a sky
generally clouded over. Our only chance appeared to be,
going from harbour to harbour and keeping close in-shore.
“ Behind Landfall Island the coast forms a deep bay, apparently
full of islands, and it is said there is in that part a
communication with the Strait of MagaUiaens. Looking from
seaward there seems to be an opening.
“ From the southern point of this bay the coast presents
a high and regular line for a few miles, and then there is a
succession of islets, rocks, and broken land. We stood in
close to the breakers, but too late in the evening to find an
anchorage. I observed kelp on the surface of the water,
growing up from the bottom, while the lead gave a depth of
forty-five fathoms. This was in a wildJooking, open bight,
full of rocks and breakers, and much exposed.
“ We stood off, close to the wind, hoping to make northing
and westing during the night; but at midnight it fell calm,
and at day-break on the 6th, to our astonishment, we found
ourselves to the southward of Cape Gloucester, a high, remarkable
promontory, standing out from the land as if it were an
island, with a peaked top, which, from the southward, appears
notched. The day proved very fine, and as a breeze sprung up
from the S.E. and gradually increased, I had hopes of seeing
more of the coast, along which we had been hustled so fast,
and so much against our inclination.
“ In running along shore, I noticed several inlets that seemed
likely to afford good harbours. This coast has not, by any
means, such a rugged and harsh appearance as I expected;
bnt the number of islets and breakers is quite enough to give
it a most dangerous character. The land is not very high near
the sea, and seems to be wooded wherever the prevailing winds
will allow trees to grow. Soundings were taken at various distances
within four miles of the shore, and the depth generally
was between twenty and one hundred fathoms. A good idea
may be formed of the current which had taken us to the S.E.,
when I say that, even with a fresh and fair wind, it occupied
us the whole of the 6th to regain the place we had left the previous
evening.